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#15 |
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YES! There are many places that use bulk 3M and another brand- which I remember is thinner thus more clear, but still protects effectively. I have seen front ends+hood+quarter panels wrapped before. Looks invisible! But again, this costs a pretty penny, but much less than a bodyshop fix all while retaining your OEM paint job.
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#16 | |
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If someone looks for pics before me. By all means post
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#18 |
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I have a lot of experience with (paint protection film) and work with a few companies that do a lot business with it. I will make this post as non-biased as possible but felt I should mention that.
Paint Protection Film (aka Clear Bra/Clear Shield/what ever) is actually a very cool product. I've seen it hold up to some nasty damage and protect paint better than anything else out there. The modern options look pretty good installed and people are getting better at putting it on. Even though it isn't super cheap I'd much rather have to buy it than repaint my bumper every 3 years, plus those of us that have repainted cars know it never is as good as factory paint ever again. what makes or breaks Paint Protection Film, more than anything else is how it is installed. The how it is installed is pretty important, since no manufactures put it on at the factory and few if any are currently doing it at the port (Gulf States Toyota being the only AFAIK). Most likely either the dealer, a contractor, or an independent shop would be installing it. These groups can do it 1 of 2 ways either a "Bulk" install where they spread it across areas and use a knife to trim off the excess (bad obviously, since it often goes into the paint) or via a "Kit" where a machine cuts a pattern which is then applied to the car (better IMHO) If you can find an installer in your area that does it via "kits" there is actually a surprising amount they can cover, i.e Hood, Fenders and mirrors most frequently. Door edges and cups / rocker panels / trunk ledges also. If the guy you find is decent at it they can also do bumpers as well. For my money that's the best area to cover since it gets hit more than anything else. I have it on my car and it is impossible to see when it is clean and not very noticeable when I let it get dirty. I had a few areas of my bike "shielded" also, which was well worth it IMHO. All of the brands (Xpel, Venture, Llumar, Avery, Suntec, 3M) are fairly similar in protection. 3M has the most orange peel which can at times be noticed and it is also the hardest to install. From what I've seen it holds up the best after 3+ years and has the best warranty. Second up would easily be Xpel (less orange peel and pretty simillar warranty/durability). The others either have frequent manufacturing blemishes or in the case of Venture (which was bought by 3M in order to kill the brand) has been deteriorating in quality and availability for a few years. I'll be wrapping my BRZ/FRS + Tint (the people I know do both) on day 1. I've seen cars with under 100 miles with rock chips before and I don't want my car to be among them. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to DMDZK For This Useful Post: | Dr.Science (05-11-2012), QC-FRS (05-11-2012) |
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#19 | |
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These kits you speak of. Do you think they will be available on day one?
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#21 |
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if your car is white, you can easily see the different color tone. Most Clear bra i see that put on white color car, it looks yellowish after few month or so. it doesn't matter is 3M or cheaper brand.
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#22 |
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Your thoughts on DGM.. Will I also notice a difference.
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#23 |
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i don't think you can see the difference. but you will still see the line. if $$ is not too big of a problem, just wrap the full front. On Darker color car is OK. Most white color car owner with clear bra, most of them just wrap the whole car.
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Whites, especially those without peal or flake frequently make the film appear to have a yellowish tinge to it. Absolutely noticeable on a white car, at least to me.
Now, in regards to this, there are two things to keep in mind. 1st, that most of the film manufacturers warranty against discoloration (3M for 5 years, which is what I have). So if it is noticeable you get a new application paid for by 3M. I think most if not all of the options provide this, for various lengths of time. 2nd, the installer I worked with has told me more often than not it isn't the film itself that causes the discoloration, but instead the "solutions" that are used to put them on. In other words the water has minerals in it that oxidize under the film and the "soap" solutions often have weak dyes in them. Worst colors for Film are always White and Black. White is the easiest to see film on, more so if it discolors. Black shows every, and I mean every, mistake a installer made when putting it on. So if you don't have a decent installer, it will never look good on a black car. Silver, Grey and non - Flat (have Flake) colors hide it the best. Quote:
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Sorry if I'm ranting a bit, after the last few years I know more about Film and a few other trinkets than anyone really should.
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#25 |
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DMDZK, who do you go through or recommend in MN here for your installs? I'd like to have the option of getting it installed without lumping it into my deal when I get my FRS.
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#26 |
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What about frosting? I have seen a number of examples where either the flim surface gets scratched so much the filmed area looks frosted, or something happens with the adhesive creating the same effect. Can anyone commnent on this?
I have never seen frosting with some of the OEM factory patches that are sometimes applied to sensitive areas. I wonder what material they use? Also I have not noticed whether the FRS or BRZ have optional/standard mud flaps? They can really save your rocker panels in harsher winter climates where they can be prone to debris kickup damage. I guess you could custom film rocker panels to help with this? cheers |
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#27 | |
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I think the film lasts for 3 years, it might be 5 years if you don't drive much.They can also wrap your entire car, but I think its in the $5k - $6k region. |
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#28 |
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I had it done on my Jetta (dark green) in 02 (new) and after 3 years the line on the hood was super noticable. I removed it, and even today you can see the color difference where it was and wasn't.
So I won't do it again, but if you do, I'd suggest only do complete panels or not at all (ie, don't do 1/3 the hood). On the FRS maybe do the front bumper and stop before the hood since the line is high anyway. |
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