MTEC shift springs

[Superhatch]

Product price: $32.98
Weight: ? Two small springs in a bag and a folded piece of light cardboard.
Shipping price to 53190: $48.65.

What?

You could literally put those in an envelope for $0.46. Is there some tax that I don't know about?

[empower-auto]

Originally Posted by Superhatch

Product price: $32.98
Weight: ? Two small springs in a bag and a folded piece of light cardboard.
Shipping price to 53190: $48.65.

What?

You could literally put those in an envelope for $0.46. Is there some tax that I don't know about?

ft86speedfactory

[jdubious]

I ordered mine direct from Mtec and it came out to $38.95 total. Still $6 for shipping but whatcha gonna do

[Fizz]

Originally Posted by jdubious

Yes it is a 27mm. I tried several setups and found the 1/2" to 3/8" adapter with a long flex head ratchet worked pretty good. You could always remove the front pipe to give more room. It was lock tighted in there and somewhat of a bitch. The 10mm has lock tight too and might be tough if using a regular allen like the video showed. There is not enough space to get a typical 1/4" allen socket in there, you will need a short one. Also there is not enough room to get a 1/4" torque wrench w/socket in there as the video suggested.

The springs are awesome btw

Do you put the 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor on the 27mm socket first, then the flex joint after the adaptor? Or do you put the flex joint on the socket?

Coz I need to buy a flex/universal joint and need to know what drive size to get....

[jdubious]

I was using a ratchet with a flex head on it like this one. If i remember correctly the adapter with a universal joint would put you into the exhaust. A series of extensions with a joint in the middle would not allow you to torque the 27 off. I didn't have a short enough 1/2" extension to get me out far enough and clear the exhaust. A deep 27 with a 1/2" ratchet might be the best way but i didn't have one of those either. If all else fails it would be pretty easy to remove that section of exhaust, then you could get your shallow 27 with 4" or so extension and bust it loose with a 1/2" ratchet.

lol...i just read that....anyways, I would hate to send you out buying tools unnecessarily

[Malt]

I got it off with a breaker bar no problem, but I can't get it to thread back up. Ugggh, been trying to get this stupid 27mm bolt back in for the past hour and my hand is cramping all up because I refuse to use the socket to start the treads for fear of crossthreading.

[M1K3]

Originally Posted by Malt

I got it off with a breaker bar no problem, but I can't get it to thread back up. Ugggh, been trying to get this stupid 27mm bolt back in for the past hour and my hand is cramping all up because I refuse to use the socket to start the treads for fear of crossthreading.

There is locktite on there! Make sure you clean it off from both the bolt threads and threads on the transmission. You're doing it right by hand tightening it, be patient take a break and start again, you will get it.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by M1K3

There is locktite on there! Make sure you clean it off from both the bolt threads and threads on the transmission. You're doing it right by hand tightening it, be patient take a break and start again, you will get it.

Suggestions on how to get locktite off the threads on the transmission? Would of been nice if the installation video mentioned how to get the locktite off.

[M1K3]

Originally Posted by Malt

Suggestions on how to get locktite off the threads on the transmission? Would of been nice if the installation video mentioned how to get the locktite off.

Just used a rag and my finger. Wrapped the rag around my finger and spun it around the threads. Use a rag that will not leave any crap behind in the threads.

[Malt]

I tried that and got nothing. There was a little bit on the bolt when I first started but I cleaned that all off. Seriously starting to get frustrated. The side of my thumb is completely raw from the shitty casting on the transmission casing from trying to ease it in.

Is it possible to fuck up the casing threads by hand threading? Cause I don't see how I haven't gotten this thing in yet.

Took a break from it and did the other side. Piece of cake. Going on over 3 hours trying to get this bolt in now.


EDIT: Just a warning to those that are planning to do this. You might want to budget more than 30 minutes to do this. Maybe it was just my bad luck but it seems like there is no way to do this in 30 minutes with all the locktite on these threads. Oh and taking the front pipe out will get you LOADS more room in there. Still working on this POS bolt.

[JDKane527]

Did you try cleaning the threads in the transmission case? It took me 30 minutes to do both, and I didn't have to clean off the loctite.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[Malt]

Originally Posted by JDKane527

Did you try cleaning the threads in the transmission case? It took me 30 minutes to do both, and I didn't have to clean off the loctite.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I see a tiny bit in there but no amount of rubbing is getting it off. I'm starting to wonder if I've somehow screwed up the threads on the transmission. I don't see how because I haven't put a socket on it yet.

Sent from my SCH-R970C using Tapatalk

[Malt]

ok... finally got tired of trying to thread this thing is and decided to take a picture so I can see exactly what is going on in there.



Wow... you can't even see all that locktite from below the car. Also, look where the red arrow is pointing. Is that a bunged up thread that might be preventing me from threading it on or is it just all that locktite that is keeping me from being able to thread it on?

I have no idea how to get all that off. I took a smallish wire brush and tried to clean it off but no luck.

[JDKane527]

Try q tips or a rag wrapped around a small screw driver

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