DIY - Easy clutch grab adjustment (~10 mins)

[CoolBReeZe]

Originally Posted by SciOnDrifTtSlIdeR

on a side note any body know how to have the gear indicator on the dash activated ?

I found that information in the owner's manual. Assuming a manual transmission, a quick scan of the pdf version located it on page 187.

"Displaying of the shift position indicator and shift-up indicator can be
turned on/off.
STEP 1
Press the “ODO/TRIP” switch repeatedly until the setting
screen is displayed. (→P. 186)
STEP 2
Each time the switch is pressed and held, the display changes
between on/off.
“G-on”: Display on
“G-oFF”: Display off"

[SciOnDrifTtSlIdeR]

thanks my manual is currently in storage with the car... i suppose i maybe should have kept it with me to study it over the winter.

[1Cor10:23]

You're not missing much without the indicator. I hardly look at it anymore. I wish it would indicate based on rowing the stick but it'll only display when the clutch is engaged.

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[s0sl0w]

Originally Posted by Andrew025

Basically pull the clip out of the pin and then squeeze the white cap of the pin and pull it out.

Thank you for answering this Andrew.

[psybre]

I just did this adjustment (using the pin-removal technique)... hardest part was getting into position to actually do the adjustment.

Feels awesome. I learned to drive manual with this car, and I have struggled with smooth shifting for the year that I've owned it. I can finally shift without having to float or drag my heel that last (what feels like) inch to fully engage.

plus my gear indicator still works, so that's awesome.

[Synack]

Originally Posted by CoolBReeZe

"Both" in the preceding post is correct.

If your clutch begins to engage just off the floor; the pressure and friction plates don't have enough clearance. Clearance is necessary to keep the clutch from partial engagement when the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

Free play at the top is necessary to keep the throwout bearing from remaining in contact with the pressure plate. Such contact spins and wears the throwout bearing. Heat build-up can also transfer to the diaphragm spring used on most conventional clutches. Excessive heat can result in less plate pressure end eventually; a slipping clutch.

Bottom line for me: clutch engages about an inch from the fully depressed position. Can depress clutch pedal about an inch against spring pressure before the hydraulics engage. Result: I have reasonable clearance between the pressure and friction plates when the clutch pedal is depressed. The throwout bearing does not contact the diaphragm spring on the pressure plate when the clutch is released = a healthy clutch over the long term.

You want to assist me with this? Because this mod f*cked my throwout bearing up, and I just replaced it with my buddy the other day. Trying to avoid it getting blown out again.

[CoolBReeZe]

Originally Posted by Synack

You want to assist me with this? Because this mod f*cked my throwout bearing up, and I just replaced it with my buddy the other day. Trying to avoid it getting blown out again.

First off a disclaimer: I'm not a professional mechanic though my shade tree skills are reasonably good.
My recommendations are based upon ownership and clutch work on multiple manual transmission cars over the past 40+ years.
As a consequence, any "other than stock" adjustment that I discuss is performed at the owner's sole risk.

With that out of the way, I'll be glad to help in person if you're in the Austin area.

If not; remember that the "upper" or "released" pedal adjustment should require depressing the pedal about an inch before you feel resistance from the clutch master cylinder.
This assures that constant pressure isn't bringing the throwout bearing into contact with the clutch pressure plate.
As you learned, the throwout bearing soon wears out.
If you noticed discoloration on pressure plate diaphragm spring I hope that you replaced the pressure plate as well.

The "lower" or "depressed" pedal adjustment should require that you release the clutch pedal from the fully-depressed position at least an inch before it begins to engage.
This ensures that the clutch fully disengages during shifts and at stop lights. A dragging clutch wears the driven plate quickly and overheats the pressure plate.
It can also lead to "crunchy shifts" and rapid synchro wear since the transmission is still being driven during shifts.

I used the "pull the pin and rotate the fork" method for my adjustment.
On my car, 1-1/2 turns from stock was the compromise that gave me appropriate clearance at each end of the travel.
Your car may be different after the transmission R&R to replace the throwout bearing.

PM me if you live in Austin and would like my help.
Either way, best of luck with the renewed throwout bearing.

[SikCee]

Adjusted mine just below brake pedal, took it for a spin, love it.
went back into the garage and removed the helper spring, now it feels like a clutch!

[JB86'd]

Originally Posted by Synack

You want to assist me with this? Because this mod f*cked my throwout bearing up, and I just replaced it with my buddy the other day. Trying to avoid it getting blown out again.

How far down did you go compared to the brake pedal?? Also did you make sure to adjust the cruise control sensor so it wasn't riding your pedal? Not doubting you just trying to figure out why it'd do that.

[Synack]

Originally Posted by JB86'd

How far down did you go compared to the brake pedal?? Also did you make sure to adjust the cruise control sensor so it wasn't riding your pedal? Not doubting you just trying to figure out why it'd do that.

I did exactly as the original post instructed from like 1.5 years ago.

I adjusted the pedal down so that it was even with the brake pedal, and then I let it down just a little bit, so now the clutch pedal is just barely below the same level as the brake pedal. Perhaps it needs to come up more?

Is the stock level above the brake pedal level? If so, how much? Maybe I'll just bring it on the same level as the brake or just a tad higher. The extra level of "comfort" isn't worth the hassle of removing the entire transmission and replacing the throwout bearing again.

[JB86'd]

Originally Posted by Synack

I did exactly as the original post instructed from like 1.5 years ago.

I adjusted the pedal down so that it was even with the brake pedal, and then I let it down just a little bit, so now the clutch pedal is just barely below the same level as the brake pedal. Perhaps it needs to come up more?

Is the stock level above the brake pedal level? If so, how much? Maybe I'll just bring it on the same level as the brake or just a tad higher. The extra level of "comfort" isn't worth the hassle of removing the entire transmission and replacing the throwout bearing again.

It seems that everyone has adjusted around the same level as you, which supposedly leaves enough free play on both sides of the pedal. Mine is just a couple millimeters above the brake pedal. I wonder if you just had a faulty throwout bearing that was going to go bad either way, you wouldn't be the first.

[CoolBReeZe]

FWIW, my clutch pedal is a few mm above the brake pedal. When adjusted below or even with the brake pedal it engaged too close to the floorboard for my comfort.

[dustmann]

Originally Posted by CoolBReeZe

FWIW, my clutch pedal is a few mm above the brake pedal. When adjusted below or even with the brake pedal it engaged too close to the floorboard for my comfort.

I just did this mod earlier this week. I love the way it feels now. My pedal is also just above the brake, with it level with the brake, the helper spring led to a mushy feel in the clutch. Now that I put it about a turn and a half out, my clutch is a couple mm above the brake and makes a good compromise from the way too high stock engagement. I still get the slingshot effect of the stock feel, but it engages about an inch off of the floor instead of 2 or 3" like before.

[codesplice]

Knocked this out today (so much for that "not gonna mod the new car" thing). I went the "remove the pin; spin the fork" route and found 1-1/2 turns to be just about perfect. I don't know if it needed it, but I went ahead and adjusted the sensor too to be safe.

Thanks to the OP for the walkthrough and to all the rest for the helpful comments and discussion, the clutch on my car feels like I expected it to from day one.

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