Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ryejeff

At the risk of rehashing old/well-known content, will you elaborate?

You responded pretty strongly with a sentiment to get a newer car. I thought I heard (but I'm not an expert) that later 2013 cars included fixes. Is there any 2013 that would be acceptable? If so, how would I recognize a 2013 that was built late enough?

I was under the impression that the early build date 2013s suffered from a few things that were fixed. Are these the problems that make you recommend a 2014+? Are there additional things I'm missing?

• Weak TOB (aside: was this ever fixed? when?)
• Coil packs prone to heat problems (again, when was this fixed, if ever?)
• Fuel filler hose internal collapse
• Moisture intrusion into taillights (though I wouldn't expect this to cause a problem on track)

I am hoping to get a twin at some point and want to make sure I get the best fit for my intended use. Thanks for the info!

DI seal issues as a result of a bad factory tune.

You cannot undo the damage that has resulted from that tune, and you will have other issues, including those you've mentioned above (although most are not pertinent to tracking).

My recommendation remains that you avoid a first year car completely.

[ryejeff]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

DI seal issues as a result of a bad factory tune.

Oooh. First I have heard of that. Seems like a bad thing. Thanks for bringing it up.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

My recommendation remains that you avoid a first year car completely.

Okay. Are all of your concerns addressed with a 2014?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ryejeff

Oooh. First I have heard of that. Seems like a bad thing. Thanks for bringing it up.



Okay. Are all of your concerns addressed with a 2014?

Mostly, yes.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

DI seal issues as a result of a bad factory tune.

You cannot undo the damage that has resulted from that tune, and you will have other issues, including those you've mentioned above (although most are not pertinent to tracking).

My recommendation remains that you avoid a first year car completely.

So if tracking a first year car would changing the DI seals help any? Is there more risk if they are damaged or is it just the damage to the engine from their issues that a problem? I have been running a new tune for most of the cars life (even got an updated ECU but still right before the good tunes I think (3/13 date on the new ECU iirc).

I don't plan to sell my car to update and will just get a newer powertrain when this one fails. But wondering if any steps might help prolong that lol

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by finch1750

So if tracking a first year car would changing the DI seals help any? Is there more risk if they are damaged or is it just the damage to the engine from their issues that a problem? I have been running a new tune for most of the cars life (even got an updated ECU but still right before the good tunes I think (3/13 date on the new ECU iirc).

I don't plan to sell my car to update and will just get a newer powertrain when this one fails. But wondering if any steps might help prolong that lol

If you change the DI seals, and have an updated tune, then the problem will not happen again, but by the time you pay for all that, you would have easily covered the difference in cost to say... a 13 to a 15, which not only carries the DI seal fix, but many other QC issues.

In your case, just address the issues as it happens; my previous statement is primarily for people buying used cars.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If you change the DI seals, and have an updated tune, then the problem will not happen again, but by the time you pay for all that, you would have easily covered the difference in cost to say... a 13 to a 15, which not only carries the DI seal fix, but many other QC issues.

In your case, just address the issues as it happens; my previous statement is primarily for people buying used cars.

Got it. Thanks for the info.

[brianxxx]

Hi mike do you have the part number for HC800 for front and rear? in Australia here we have gt and gts model and the part number for the rear seem to be R914-HC800 and R916-HC800 respectively. Front seems to be F914-HC800. However, I'm not sure if thats correct and just wanna make sure i order the correct parts.

Thanks in advance,
Brian

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by brianxxx

Hi mike do you have the part number for HC800 for front and rear? in Australia here we have gt and gts model and the part number for the rear seem to be R914-HC800 and R916-HC800 respectively. Front seems to be F914-HC800. However, I'm not sure if thats correct and just wanna make sure i order the correct parts.

Thanks in advance,
Brian

916 is the larger rear. I do not know for the smaller.

I don't recommend you attempt to track on the HC800 at all.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

916 is the larger rear. I do not know for the smaller.

I don't recommend you attempt to track on the HC800 at all.

Is there a specific reason why? I have seen plenty of threads on these pads that you have commented on and not mentioned this before.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Is there a specific reason why? I have seen plenty of threads on these pads that you have commented on and not mentioned this before.

Better to have more pad than you need to grow into, than have a pad that you'll outgrow, and effectively have just paperweights.

[86Craze]

What tires to run in SM class? I am currently on RE71s, should I stick with it ?

[14stu]

SM allows Hoosiers, but if you don't want to go all the way to slicks then stick withe the Bridgestones.

[finch1750]

Has anyone done a comparison of Harry's Lap Timer with phone GPS compared to an external or AiM? I will be buying Qstarz before my next track day but am curious/trying to settle an argument lol

[jjaisli]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Has anyone done a comparison of Harry's Lap Timer with phone GPS compared to an external or AiM? I will be buying Qstarz before my next track day but am curious/trying to settle an argument lol

I did a few years ago with an iPhone 6. Surprisingly the times were within about .2 of a lap or less over 3 laps vs an AIM Solo in the car.

IMO, for out right timing, Harry's and a modern smart phone do a surprisingly good job. Where it falls short, is when you export the data and try and work with it. The data overlay is improved if you use an OBDII dongle, but when you're dealing in 0.1, between on/off throttle, the amount and frequency of data points being collect by Harry's falls short. I remember looking at data collected at the bus stop at WGI 2 years ago, trying to compare a brake trace [Edit: between multiple laps] (Harry's doesn't, at least not on a twin) and looking at throttle tip in, there just wasn't enough data points to really do a proper comparison.

EDIT: My ultimate conclusion is this: Harry's Lap Timer does a good job if you want to time yourself. And it will give you relatively accurate lateral g loading. You can look at your laps and see where you can maybe push a bit harder here or there. Where it falls short is if you want to actually work with that data and compare multiple laps and really see where you're gaining or losing time.