Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[Joesurf79]

Originally Posted by LOLS2K

Enjoy

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25494

Appreciate it, thanks!

[Bramick]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

Appreciate it, thanks!

https://www.beastronix.com/products/...e-pedal-dance/

https://www.beastronix.com/shop/

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

D'oh! I put the RCE yellow springs on in December... Maybe I need to bump up to stiffer springs. And at that point, my dampers are likely overpowered?

Photo is of a car lifting its inside front wheel in the Toe at the Glen at 68 MPH.

Front Spring Rate = 1598#. Front Bar = 38mm with six adjustment holes; bar is set on 4th stiffest hole.

So, the front end of this car is extremely stiffly sprung, and it's still lifting the wheel. It was a non-issue as far as driving the car fast.

[trippinbillies40]

Originally Posted by dradernh

Photo is of a car lifting its inside front wheel in the Toe at the Glen at 68 MPH.

Front Spring Rate = 1598#. Front Bar = 38mm with six adjustment holes; bar is set on 4th stiffest hole.

So, the front end of this car is extremely stiffly sprung, and it's still lifting the wheel. It was a non-issue as far as driving the car fast.

Front wheel lift on those cars is extremely common. Chassis flex and softer rear springs with that huge front bar play more of a factor than the front springs.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by trippinbillies40

Front wheel lift on those cars is extremely common. Chassis flex and softer rear springs with that huge front bar play more of a factor than the front springs.

You nailed it.

Any thoughts on Joesurf79's query?

[trippinbillies40]

Originally Posted by dradernh

You nailed it.

Any thoughts on Joesurf79's query?

Honestly no, sorry I'm genuinely surprised he's lifting a wheel up front outside of jut pounding off of curbs. My car never lifted a wheel on track unless I bounced off of curbs.

That having been said, I agree that I wouldn't worry about it too much. A 20mm front bar on soft and a 16mm rear bar would probably solve the lift.

Also, if it's really rolling over that much, you probably need more than 3 degrees of camber up front. 3.2-3.4 probably on that setup. Just a guess though.

[Joesurf79]

Appreciate all the feedback guys! Looking at the lift on that beemer, I now think that mine might be much ado about nothing. This is the pic with the wheel lift that got me curious.

[trippinbillies40]

Looks uphill and on camber which will also plant a ton of extra grip and make the vehicle more susceptible to lifting a wheel. I don't think you have anything to worry about!

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

Appreciate all the feedback guys! Looking at the lift on that beemer, I now think that mine might be much ado about nothing. This is the pic with the wheel lift that got me curious.

Setup on E36s is way different than ours. I wouldn't try to apply too much from those to the BRZ platform.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Joesurf79

Appreciate all the feedback guys! Looking at the lift on that beemer, I now think that mine might be much ado about nothing. This is the pic with the wheel lift that got me curious.

While it's not super easy to read, the photo looks to me like you've still got ~2/3 of your RF tire at least kissing the pavement.

Originally Posted by Pat

Setup on E36s is way different than ours. I wouldn't try to apply too much from those to the BRZ platform.

OT, but the stiffness of that particular E36 is an extremely unconventional setup for the chassis. It was built for pros and won the 1998 Speedvision GS championship with Borcheller and Pilgrim driving. (Speedvision became Grand-Am, which became today's Continental Tire SportsCar Challenge.)

<end OT>

[cjd]

Originally Posted by dradernh

While it's not super easy to read, the photo looks to me like you've still got ~2/3 of your RF tire at least kissing the pavement.

Yup. The shadow angle makes for an easy mis-read, note the rear tire has sunlight reaching all the way to contact patch, so does the front, but because of the under-car shadow proximity it looks like its lifted, but it isnt. I'd say even 80% contact RF still.

C

[Joesurf79]

Originally Posted by cjd

Yup. The shadow angle makes for an easy mis-read, note the rear tire has sunlight reaching all the way to contact patch, so does the front, but because of the under-car shadow proximity it looks like its lifted, but it isnt. I'd say even 80% contact RF still.

C

Ah, I see what you're saying! Zoomed in and out a bunch and now I agree, it's an optical illusion almost. Car feels great to me as is, then seeing that, I thought it would feel better if all the wheels were on the ground haha! Thanks for the catch guys,
Less worry, more seat time it is.

[JoeC]

I just bought a set of Maxxis RC-1 to run on dedicated track wheels. I do HPDE and would like to maximize the life and grip of the tires. I've read about a method of initially putting one solid heat cycle in them and then letting them sit for a minimum of 24 hours. To do so I'd sacrifice part of one session and then have to run my street tires for the rest of the weekend.

Other things I've read indicate that it doesn't make much of a difference. What are your thoughts? should I do this single heat cycle method or just run them all weekend?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by JoeC

I just bought a set of Maxxis RC-1 to run on dedicated track wheels. I do HPDE and would like to maximize the life and grip of the tires. I've read about a method of initially putting one solid heat cycle in them and then letting them sit for a minimum of 24 hours. To do so I'd sacrifice part of one session and then have to run my street tires for the rest of the weekend.

Other things I've read indicate that it doesn't make much of a difference. What are your thoughts? should I do this single heat cycle method or just run them all weekend?

It doesn't matter for the RC1.