Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by GSpeed

I know it's not the answer you're looking for, but for anyone else looking for a kickass track setup, our guy loves the PFC 08/13 compounds with titanium shims and RBF600.

Exactly this. I was running the 08's on the stock calipers/rotors.


Now financially... you're probably better off going with the AP kit because the pads are half the price of a set of pads for the factory front calipers and will last you longer. You wind up paying off the Sprint kit in a season or two depending on how many days you do.


Unfortunately neither of those compounds are available in the AP pad shape.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

I'm looking at the CSGarage Essex AP Racing Sprint kit again. I will be at Road America this weekend, and that experience will determine whether I go BBK or not. I feel I've done as much as I can to the car without going to a BBK setup.

So, my questions. The car currently has the Touge Factory Duct Kit. Is there an adapter available for the Sprint kit that will let me connect the ducting to put air into the rotors? The Endurance Kit has an adapter, will that work on the Sprint kit also?

Will this kit fit on Enkei RPF1 17x7.5 wheels? If not, what can I do to make it fit?

Where did you get the 7.5's? I picked mine up (8") from Tire Rack and all they had available was 17x7,8,9.


The Sprint kit clears 17x8 with plenty of room. 17x7.5 RPF1 only has a 3mm offset difference from the 17x8 so I can't see any issues.


AP Racing makes a backing plate kit that will fit the Sprint rotors with some modification. I have pictures if needed because I was doing a write-up for them. What size are your duct hoses? I'll measure the AP fitting for you.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

I'm looking at the CSGarage Essex AP Racing Sprint kit again. I will be at Road America this weekend, and that experience will determine whether I go BBK or not. I feel I've done as much as I can to the car without going to a BBK setup.

So, my questions. The car currently has the Touge Factory Duct Kit. Is there an adapter available for the Sprint kit that will let me connect the ducting to put air into the rotors? The Endurance Kit has an adapter, will that work on the Sprint kit also?

Will this kit fit on Enkei RPF1 17x7.5 wheels? If not, what can I do to make it fit?

It'll depend on the face of your RPF1.

The Sprint kit doesn't have specific accommodations for ducts, but I can confirm that the APR kit fits with it.

If you're experiencing accelerated wear with the XP10, you most likely would benefit from a BBK.

Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ

Nah. Thought my learning curve would be a bit longer and I wouldn't need to worry about a BBK for a very long time. Could have, should have, etc. It doesn't really matter, and it's not a big deal. Moving forward, it's probably time to try something different.



It's not that I "need" ducts with the BBK, it's that they are already there and installed. If I can use them by just buying an optional adapter, I'll do that. If not...well then they'll be pulled.

Thanks for the template info, forgot about that! I'll make one soon and pull the wheels to see if it'll fit.

Most beginners I coach, when truly focusing on the fundamentals, will be reaching the limitations of their stock brake system, even with race pads, on their first or second day. I'm not surprised you've gotten there in just a few days, even without coaching.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Uplink

Where did you get the 7.5's? I picked mine up (8") from Tire Rack and all they had available was 17x7,8,9.


The Sprint kit clears 17x8 with plenty of room. 17x7.5 RPF1 only has a 3mm offset difference from the 17x8 so I can't see any issues.


AP Racing makes a backing plate kit that will fit the Sprint rotors with some modification. I have pictures if needed because I was doing a write-up for them. What size are your duct hoses? I'll measure the AP fitting for you.

APR Performance =/= AP Racing

http://counterspacegarage.com/apr-pe...t-kit-frs.html

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by dp1

If you have the funds, if you enjoy pushing the car on track, if you want to stop thinking about brakes on track, just get it. Doubt you need ducts, I don't have them. I'm on JRSC/Ohlins/Slicks/AP Sprint/XP12/Torque RT700 - slicks chirp in braking zones but brakes don't fade.

I use 12mm aluminum spacer to fit +45 enkei rpf1, just follow instructions above.

Get them through CSG to help them help us

What size are your RPF1's? Mine don't need the spacer (17x8x45mm)


One thing to note, the wheels will just barely catch the hub center with the Sprint rotors because the aluminum hats are thicker than stock. Not an issue at all but something for people to be aware of so they don't have a 'wtf?' moment.

[Uplink]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

APR Performance =/= AP Racing

http://counterspacegarage.com/apr-pe...t-kit-frs.html

Right, them. Sorry, posting this at work.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Mike, maybe you can explain. How do you melt a pad without experiencing fade?

Coming from sport bikes and Miata's brakes have never been a concern (minus 1.6 brakes).

Fluid, Carbotechs. Done. No issues. Even when sharing the car and doing back to back 20 minute sessions all day.

[DocWalt]

At least with the Carbotechs the pad starts getting cracks and the edges of the pad start to crumble off when they get really hot. I never had any fade, but these pads were likely right on the edge of their thermal threshold. It's a little tough to tell in the pic, but the upper left corner crumbled off and there's cracks in the pad material all over the place. XP10s with stock tires, FWIW. It also destroyed the caliper boots, obviously.

I'm making the decision to do an event on XP12s with RE-71R's, so I guess I'll find out if I need a BBK

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

Mike, maybe you can explain. How do you melt a pad without experiencing fade?

Coming from sport bikes and Miata's brakes have never been a concern (minus 1.6 brakes).

Fluid, Carbotechs. Done. No issues. Even when sharing the car and doing back to back 20 minute sessions all day.

When you brake, you have a momentary heat spike that the surface of the pad and rotor. Over a short-ish period of time, that head will conduct into the rest of the pad and the rotor, and eventually dissipate into the air.

That momentary spike can glaze the surface of your pad, without having enough total heat energy to cause the whole pad to be damaged via improper burnishing, or causing prolonged fade that's noticed by the driver.

Many compounds, Carbotechs included, are very tolerant of heat beyond their normal operating range, without noticeable fade, but at the cost of increased wear.

[Apex_BRZ]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It'll depend on the face of your RPF1.

The Sprint kit doesn't have specific accommodations for ducts, but I can confirm that the APR kit fits with it.

If you're experiencing accelerated wear with the XP10, you most likely would benefit from a BBK.



Most beginners I coach, when truly focusing on the fundamentals, will be reaching the limitations of their stock brake system, even with race pads, on their first or second day. I'm not surprised you've gotten there in just a few days, even without coaching.

I see. So, if I want to use my ducting that's already there...just need to remove the TF adapter plates and install APR instead. Simple enough. Guess I'd have to see how the Sprint hardware fits and what's preventing the TF plates from working (assuming they dont). Thanks!

[dp1]

Originally Posted by Uplink

What size are your RPF1's? Mine don't need the spacer (17x8x45mm)


One thing to note, the wheels will just barely catch the hub center with the Sprint rotors because the aluminum hats are thicker than stock. Not an issue at all but something for people to be aware of so they don't have a 'wtf?' moment.

Same size 17x8 +45, don't need spacer but the spokes get very close to the caliper so I use the spacer anyway. I also have 17x9 +45 and they do need a spacer.

[ZionsWrath]

Here is the wear on my RE11A that I just replaced with AD08R.

Do you think I need more negative camber? That is my impression from the wear. It is relatively even on the tires with more on the outer than inner. Over the 4 tires the wear isn't as even as possible but I rotated as best I could. The bottom tire has less overall wear because I had to replaced one tire after a few track days due to an accident.

Currently at -2.6 front, -2.3 rear, .05 toe out front and .05 toe in rear.

Any input?

[Pat]

Yes, more camber needed. Maybe even 3.5*. Can you adjust camber at the track?
Try less air pressure, too.

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by Pat

Yes, more camber needed. Maybe even 3.5*. Can you adjust camber at the track?
Try less air pressure, too.

I have raceseng camber plates. Wondering, I have OEM camber bolt in top hole. Should I remove it and do all my camber with plates or leave it. Had no issues with it just curious.

I been running 35 "hot" (coming into paddock and setting to 35), so you are right maybe a bit high.

These are track wheels/tires so I don't think I need to change anything on track to accommodate tire wear. I have a street set and I don't drive enough for it to matter. To/from events, weekends and random times I feel like it.