Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[ka-t_240]

Do you think any sort of ducting/cooling is needed with DTC60s on this chassis? Car usually sees 20 minute sessions on 245/40/17 200tw tires and is still NA(E85 and Header). Or, is it best to get out and see how they do after their first event and then plan accordingly?

I've previously been running HP+ and have 5.5 track days, 9kish street miles, and 14 autox events on them and still are about half pad left. At my last track day I was getting pad fade so figured it was time to upgrade.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Do you think any sort of ducting/cooling is needed with DTC60s on this chassis? Car usually sees 20 minute sessions on 245/40/17 200tw tires and is still NA(E85 and Header). Or, is it best to get out and see how they do after their first event and then plan accordingly?

I've previously been running HP+ and have 5.5 track days, 9kish street miles, and 14 autox events on them and still are about half pad left. At my last track day I was getting pad fade so figured it was time to upgrade.

It wouldn't hurt if you're experienced.

[ZionsWrath]

I might have over revved my engine, any way to check?

I missed third and when I tried again I think I hit first. Luckily it was on an steep uphill so I was losing speed while this was happening. I think I was around 45mph when it happened. I didn't release the clutch all the way as I heard the engine revving high. I think it might have exceed 8000 not sure.

Anyway, I completed the rest of the day without issue. Everything seems to be running fine. I guess time will tell? lol

[Campo]

My redline is bumped up to 8500 although I stay away from that limit like the plague (it wasn't supposed to be set that high and I haven't been back to the tuner to bring it back down yet). I have however hit 8000 a few times. My oil analysis hasn't shown anything in the oil that indicates damage or excessive wear. I haven't torn the engine apart to look at the internals but if you caught it, I imagine you're ok.


Tapatalk - because smoke signals would be too easy.

[EAGLE5]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Do you think any sort of ducting/cooling is needed with DTC60s on this chassis? Car usually sees 20 minute sessions on 245/40/17 200tw tires and is still NA(E85 and Header). Or, is it best to get out and see how they do after their first event and then plan accordingly?

I've previously been running HP+ and have 5.5 track days, 9kish street miles, and 14 autox events on them and still are about half pad left. At my last track day I was getting pad fade so figured it was time to upgrade.

Did you glaze your discs at all? Fine cracks?

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I might have over revved my engine, any way to check?

I missed third and when I tried again I think I hit first. Luckily it was on an steep uphill so I was losing speed while this was happening. I think I was around 45mph when it happened. I didn't release the clutch all the way as I heard the engine revving high. I think it might have exceed 8000 not sure.

Anyway, I completed the rest of the day without issue. Everything seems to be running fine. I guess time will tell? lol

Compression/leak down test to see if you bent anything.

[noodleface]

I've been reading about the stock tune on the earlier ('13s) models being pretty awful especially if intend to drive more and more on the track (5-10 days/year) and possibly leading to catastrophic failure. It's a little disconcerting to hear of the stock tunes on the older cars possibly leading to long term issues.

My question is if an off the shelf tune (i.e. from OFT) will be sufficient to help out the long term reliability of the engine or if I'm better of finding a local tuner for a custom tune. I will most likely pair the tune with a header and fp/op at some point.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by noodleface

I've been reading about the stock tune on the earlier ('13s) models being pretty awful especially if intend to drive more and more on the track (5-10 days/year) and possibly leading to catastrophic failure. It's a little disconcerting to hear of the stock tunes on the older cars possibly leading to long term issues.

My question is if an off the shelf tune (i.e. from OFT) will be sufficient to help out the long term reliability of the engine or if I'm better of finding a local tuner for a custom tune. I will most likely pair the tune with a header and fp/op at some point.

If you're going to spring for an updated base map via OFT/Ecutek, you might as well get a tune to extract the potential of any other bolt-ons you already have.

Do it all at the same time.

If your DI seals already are damaged, then they may still ultimately go out, but once you replace them you'll be golden.

[strat61caster]

Speaking very generally, does a stiffer spring reduce the amount of camber required for optimum tire usage?

I would imagine that with a stiffer spring (or wheel rate if preferred to account for sway bar changes) you will get less suspension travel on the wheel meaning that your dynamic camber changes are lessened translating to a reduced amount of static camber to get the ideal contact patch under load during a corner.

Maybe that's true but the sensitivity isn't there, i.e. going from a 130 lb/in spring to a 260 lb/in or 620 lb/in spring only changes the required camber by a couple hundredths, not several tenths of a degree (of course driven by how heavy the vehicle is, 130 to 260 on a 1,500 lb car vs. a 3,000 lb car will be magnitudes different in it's effect).

[VADERR]

Has anyone fit an evo 3 seat in a BRZ or FRS?

[ZionsWrath]

My RE11A have 1 event left in them. I really liked them. Haven't actually had a wet day to test wet performance of them but besides that I am happy.

But they are my first track tire. Should I try something else? Or get another set?

Also, any advice on evening out wear on 4 corners? I tried rotating between events but I guess different tracks, days, conditions doesn't really lend well to a conventional rotation. 2 of them are just about to be slicks and the other 2 have a bit more, but noticeable, tread left.

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

Did you glaze your discs at all? Fine cracks?

No cracks in disks or visual glazing when I got home.

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

My RE11A have 1 event left in them. I really liked them. Haven't actually had a wet day to test wet performance of them but besides that I am happy.

But they are my first track tire. Should I try something else? Or get another set?

Also, any advice on evening out wear on 4 corners? I tried rotating between events but I guess different tracks, days, conditions doesn't really lend well to a conventional rotation. 2 of them are just about to be slicks and the other 2 have a bit more, but noticeable, tread left.

RE11A have been discontinued. The new RE71 are known to wear much faster than other tires. The 200tw tire game is on point right now, so much industry compitition. Pretty much any 200tw tire will be great on the brz/frs. Well.. maybe not the nt05.

As for tire wear, post up some more info such as your wheel and tire specs and alignment. Also, do you have pics of the tires?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

RE11A have been discontinued. The new RE71 are known to wear much faster than other tires. The 200tw tire game is on point right now, so much industry compitition. Pretty much any 200tw tire will be great on the brz/frs. Well.. maybe not the nt05.

As for tire wear, post up some more info such as your wheel and tire specs and alignment. Also, do you have pics of the tires?

The RE71R grip, and wear, like 80TW tires. They even roar like 80TW tires. No wonder there's no TW rating on them....