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| Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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#2717 |
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Because compromise ®
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: Red Herring
Location: australia
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Prior to every track outing my car gets an oil change plus filter,brake pad swap and a bleed of the brakes. Considering that it is only the calipers that gets hot I am thinking I don't really need to do a full replacement of the brake fluid. Can someone tell me the approximate volume of the fluid in Sprint front/oem rear calipers that I would need to change. Just a ball park figure would be helpful.
Ta.
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My car is completely stock except for all the mods.
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#2718 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Drives: 86
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Since you aren't supposed to keep brake fluid bottles around after braking the seal (fluid will absorb air over time otherwise), you can use whole bottle for the bleed..
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#2719 | |
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Because compromise ®
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: Red Herring
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Quote:
I live in a relatively dry location and a bottle doesn't get left open for very long so I am happy to use a bottle within a couple of months of being opened. It's not like the bottle is kept left exposed to the air.
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My car is completely stock except for all the mods.
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#2720 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: 22 BRZ (Previously 13 FR-S)
Location: USA
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If anyone is wondering about engine logs with OFT stage 2 at the track, here's mine.
http://datazap.me/u/darksunrise/trac...og=0&data=1-14 You can see a fair amount of knock in the form of FLKC, although IAM was solidly 1.0 and didn't drop. In terms of fuel I was running: - 2/3 of my tank was a bad batch of 93 octane (I filled up the day before my track event and was suddenly seeing knock on the street) - 1/3 of my tank was 100 octane from the track Call it 94 octane maybe. Definitely a good idea to add 100 octane or use e85 at the track. Later in the day, I later added another 1/3 tank of 100 octane and the engine was happier - I had much less knock and gained a couple of mph at the end of the straight. It's nice being able to pull on those pesky S2000's! I had also installed a Perrin oil cooler. Looks pretty effective from the log. Even during the later hotter sessions, I don't think I saw anything north of 235 F. The only downside is I think the oil cooler lines are heating up my stock airbox and increasing IATs by 10 F, maybe more. I'm constantly seeing IATs 20 F above ambient now at speed. I'll see if I can take some logs with higher mix of 100 octane later today.
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"Never run out of real estate, traction, and ideas at the same time."
2022 BRZ Build 2013 FR-S Build |
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#2721 |
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in orbe terrum non visi
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: violent
Location: Mountains
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Anyone fix the left hand corner fuel starvation issue yet?
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I have E85 where there isn't E85, that's my secret.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=reaper+build |
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#2722 |
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not playing cards
Join Date: Sep 2014
Drives: a 13 e8h frs
Location: vantucky, wa
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...unlike the fluid in the reservoir, which is sealed tightly? I'm with you, Snooze.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | Captain Snooze (05-17-2015) |
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#2723 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: '13 BRZ Ltd WRB/'17 STI CWP
Location: Boston
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My OEM rotors (50k miles and 2 re-surfacings later) might be toast after my last HPDE. I'm experiencing a lot of vibration and pulling to one side under heavy braking, lots of grinding noises while slowing to a stop and whistling noises at speed.
I'm currently running pMu HC+800s (which are at about 60%) with Motul RBF600. I'm thinking of changing up the rotors. I've been checking out the pMu Club Racer Rotors thru CSG. Is this too much for a car that sees 5-10 track days a year and does it pair well with the HC+800s? The other alternative I'm considering are DBA T3s unless someone else has some better suggestions. |
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#2724 | ||
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
Location: Orange County
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() If you open a bottle and want to save it, seal it. Use rubber cement around the cap, and if moisture can't get in, you're golden. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | Captain Snooze (05-17-2015) |
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#2725 |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
Location: Orange County
Posts: 14,562
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#2726 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Drives: '22 BRZ
Location: PA
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I ask not to be rude at all, I have a feeling my BRZ will be my track toy soon enough and the GTI has a surge tank from the factory so I've never needed to worry about it before. Too bad VW couldn't engineer the rest of the car to save their ass. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to DocWalt For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (05-17-2015) |
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#2727 |
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Off Topic
Join Date: Feb 2014
Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ Limited
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What would you recommend as a fix for a street-driven car? A number of people have been having issues with fuel starvation during high-g left turns, so it's definitely something that could stand to be addressed.
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#2728 |
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in orbe terrum non visi
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: violent
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I'm using a Walbro 485 in the factory surge cup and using an oem pump hanging from the passenger side fuel sender unit to force feed the surge cup. It worked great until the LONG left hander at AMP where all three frs' we brought fuel starved with more than 1/2 tank! Even the NA cars. Going to try another Walbro 485 in place of the oem pump on the end of the syphon force feeding the surge cup. Might also try the new holley fuel blanket thing. External surge tank is not an option. Trying to make the factory gas tank work. If anyone has any ideas respond.
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I have E85 where there isn't E85, that's my secret.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=reaper+build |
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#2729 |
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Dismember
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2013 Red Scion FR-S
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Wallbro pickups?
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#2730 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: S2000 CR
Location: Orange County
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Quote:
The banking at ACS is 14 degrees, and FRS's pull 2G+ there for extended (10+ seconds) periods without issue... |
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