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Old 05-17-2015, 12:59 AM   #2717
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Prior to every track outing my car gets an oil change plus filter,brake pad swap and a bleed of the brakes. Considering that it is only the calipers that gets hot I am thinking I don't really need to do a full replacement of the brake fluid. Can someone tell me the approximate volume of the fluid in Sprint front/oem rear calipers that I would need to change. Just a ball park figure would be helpful.

Ta.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:02 AM   #2718
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Quote:
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Can someone tell me the approximate volume of the fluid in Sprint front/oem rear calipers that I would need to change. Just a ball park figure would be helpful.

Ta.
Since you aren't supposed to keep brake fluid bottles around after braking the seal (fluid will absorb air over time otherwise), you can use whole bottle for the bleed..
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:37 AM   #2719
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Since you aren't supposed to keep brake fluid bottles around after braking the seal (fluid will absorb moisture over time otherwise), you can use whole bottle for the bleed..
Fixed.

I live in a relatively dry location and a bottle doesn't get left open for very long so I am happy to use a bottle within a couple of months of being opened. It's not like the bottle is kept left exposed to the air.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:23 AM   #2720
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If anyone is wondering about engine logs with OFT stage 2 at the track, here's mine.

http://datazap.me/u/darksunrise/trac...og=0&data=1-14

You can see a fair amount of knock in the form of FLKC, although IAM was solidly 1.0 and didn't drop.

In terms of fuel I was running:

- 2/3 of my tank was a bad batch of 93 octane (I filled up the day before my track event and was suddenly seeing knock on the street)
- 1/3 of my tank was 100 octane from the track

Call it 94 octane maybe. Definitely a good idea to add 100 octane or use e85 at the track. Later in the day, I later added another 1/3 tank of 100 octane and the engine was happier - I had much less knock and gained a couple of mph at the end of the straight. It's nice being able to pull on those pesky S2000's!

I had also installed a Perrin oil cooler. Looks pretty effective from the log. Even during the later hotter sessions, I don't think I saw anything north of 235 F. The only downside is I think the oil cooler lines are heating up my stock airbox and increasing IATs by 10 F, maybe more. I'm constantly seeing IATs 20 F above ambient now at speed.

I'll see if I can take some logs with higher mix of 100 octane later today.
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:52 AM   #2721
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Anyone fix the left hand corner fuel starvation issue yet?
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:34 PM   #2722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Snooze View Post
Fixed.

I live in a relatively dry location and a bottle doesn't get left open for very long so I am happy to use a bottle within a couple of months of being opened. It's not like the bottle is kept left exposed to the air.
...unlike the fluid in the reservoir, which is sealed tightly? I'm with you, Snooze.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:00 PM   #2723
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My OEM rotors (50k miles and 2 re-surfacings later) might be toast after my last HPDE. I'm experiencing a lot of vibration and pulling to one side under heavy braking, lots of grinding noises while slowing to a stop and whistling noises at speed.

I'm currently running pMu HC+800s (which are at about 60%) with Motul RBF600. I'm thinking of changing up the rotors. I've been checking out the pMu Club Racer Rotors thru CSG. Is this too much for a car that sees 5-10 track days a year and does it pair well with the HC+800s? The other alternative I'm considering are DBA T3s unless someone else has some better suggestions.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:02 PM   #2724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Snooze View Post
Fixed.

I live in a relatively dry location and a bottle doesn't get left open for very long so I am happy to use a bottle within a couple of months of being opened. It's not like the bottle is kept left exposed to the air.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Snooze View Post
Prior to every track outing my car gets an oil change plus filter,brake pad swap and a bleed of the brakes. Considering that it is only the calipers that gets hot I am thinking I don't really need to do a full replacement of the brake fluid. Can someone tell me the approximate volume of the fluid in Sprint front/oem rear calipers that I would need to change. Just a ball park figure would be helpful.

Ta.
The system can be bled with 500ML, if you're careful, so you should never have any left over anyways

If you open a bottle and want to save it, seal it. Use rubber cement around the cap, and if moisture can't get in, you're golden.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:03 PM   #2725
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Anyone fix the left hand corner fuel starvation issue yet?
Surge tank, but not recommended for ANY street driven car, and not recommended for race cars unless you have a fire system.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:52 PM   #2726
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Surge tank, but not recommended for ANY street driven car, and not recommended for race cars unless you have a fire system.
I've never paid attention... No room under car for small surge tank or does that still apply since it's not OEM engineered?

I ask not to be rude at all, I have a feeling my BRZ will be my track toy soon enough and the GTI has a surge tank from the factory so I've never needed to worry about it before. Too bad VW couldn't engineer the rest of the car to save their ass.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:00 PM   #2727
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Surge tank, but not recommended for ANY street driven car, and not recommended for race cars unless you have a fire system.
What would you recommend as a fix for a street-driven car? A number of people have been having issues with fuel starvation during high-g left turns, so it's definitely something that could stand to be addressed.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:02 PM   #2728
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Surge tank, but not recommended for ANY street driven car, and not recommended for race cars unless you have a fire system.
I'm using a Walbro 485 in the factory surge cup and using an oem pump hanging from the passenger side fuel sender unit to force feed the surge cup. It worked great until the LONG left hander at AMP where all three frs' we brought fuel starved with more than 1/2 tank! Even the NA cars. Going to try another Walbro 485 in place of the oem pump on the end of the syphon force feeding the surge cup. Might also try the new holley fuel blanket thing. External surge tank is not an option. Trying to make the factory gas tank work. If anyone has any ideas respond.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:34 AM   #2729
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Wallbro pickups?
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:16 AM   #2730
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Quote:
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I'm using a Walbro 485 in the factory surge cup and using an oem pump hanging from the passenger side fuel sender unit to force feed the surge cup. It worked great until the LONG left hander at AMP where all three frs' we brought fuel starved with more than 1/2 tank! Even the NA cars. Going to try another Walbro 485 in place of the oem pump on the end of the syphon force feeding the surge cup. Might also try the new holley fuel blanket thing. External surge tank is not an option. Trying to make the factory gas tank work. If anyone has any ideas respond.
What is the setup on all the cars?

The banking at ACS is 14 degrees, and FRS's pull 2G+ there for extended (10+ seconds) periods without issue...
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