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#43 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
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I'm considering purchasing a unichip, and then going with Visconti/FA20club tune to see if I can find any noticeable difference.
Would anybody be interested in such a comparison? I would be dynoing both of the products, and do extensive road testing with each. Maybe a few videos, but I don't have a good camera so it'd probably be limited to my android phone. I'm really curious and would love to clear some stigma from unichip as I honestly believe it to be either very close or just as good as the ecutek tunes. ...And then I'll probably be going e85 (ecutek probably as unichip doesn't have a tune out for it yet apparently)*
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#44 | |
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Add lightness!
Join Date: Apr 2012
Drives: 17' WRX
Location: Boston
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#45 |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: R35 GTR/997.1 Turbo/MB W212/Tucson
Location: Tustin, CA
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haha my posts got deleted. Too much reality check for a forum sponsored vendor I guess.
The FRS ECU isn't radically different then the EJ20 ECU's from the mid 2000's. During the Toyota acquisition of Subaru in I think 05 there were already rumors of a joint toyota / subaru venture based on the EJ20. We saw some prototype ECU's coming out of Subaru that were geared towards a toyota-Subaru JV. We saw some prototype engines too, but those were turbo. Therefore a WRX - FA20 comparison is very valid and opening up a discussion to the very valid issues posed by a piggy back system frankly is a service to FRS owners. If Unichip has drastically improved their systems over the WRX models then they should have nothing to hide. The forum owners & management here will want to think very carefully about balancing income revenue with the greater good of forum participants - afterall I don't think the mods would be falling all over themselves to protect the interests of Prolong or that fan thing that you place in the intake that supposedly makes 50HP would they? I'll leave it at that... |
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#46 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: R35 GTR/997.1 Turbo/MB W212/Tucson
Location: Tustin, CA
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1. WOT / Open Loop tuning is relatively straightforward. The difference between a bad tune and a good tune is streetability and closed loop operation. Typically (unless the tuner is truly terrible) a bad tune cannot be detected until driving for a few hundred miles. 2. On the FRS which is a mid-range powered, normally aspirated car, the advantages and disadvantages of a piggy back or any type of intercept computer is not very apparent. This is why Apexi sold tens of thousands of AFC's and why Greddy sold thousands of Emanage units. This comparison would be much better suited for a more heavily modified FRS, such as a forced induction car. I for one would like to see a few unichip forced induction FRS after a few thousand miles of operation. |
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#47 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: DS FRS
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Since this is not being marketed to forced induction cars, but rather to cars with simple bolt ons, I don't see why you keep going on about its limitations in a FI world. I don't really care about that, since this is a cost effective and simple solution for a mostly stock car.
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#48 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2012
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
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I'm probably not going to be able to do this for a month or two, so assuming you guys can wait this might save somebody the money. I might do unichip next month, and ecutek in May. EDIT: Also, I have an Auto transmission so results might vary from MT. Although from what I've read power gains are similar in AT tunes. |
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#49 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: R35 GTR/997.1 Turbo/MB W212/Tucson
Location: Tustin, CA
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#50 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: R35 GTR/997.1 Turbo/MB W212/Tucson
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Here's my thing - say you have BPU right, well a tuner is going to look at that and go "hmmm ok" I'll pull 5% fuel out and notch timing up 1-2 degrees, and this will be accomplished by the Unichip "lying" to the stock ECU either by scaling MAF 5% lower or by fudging the IDCs (please tell me if i'm wrong - how is fuel trim & ignition timing adjustment done by unichip on FRS?). Everything will be fine because a 5% change is easily within the tolerances of the stock ECU. But try this at 20 degree F, hill-climb to Tahoe at elevation - or conversely cruising downhill into Mohave in 110F heat - if things are going to get thrown out of wack that's when it's going to happen. |
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#51 | |
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Site Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Drives: ichi 86 Project
Location: Middle of No where
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All the vendor here get clean slate in this site (love it or hate it). Praise, bitch, or whatever about CURRENT item on FR-S/BRZ. If you don't like their stuff, don't bother. Shop will disappear & it have in the pass in this site (not going depth about it). Yes, OP do ask very general question & need some pass info, but do you see Visconti trashing Unichip over & over? He stated simple which one he prefer and ended w that. You prefer ECUtek over unichip, sure that's fine, but don't need to dig up all the negative pass history. If I want, I can dig all those up for EVERY SINGLE TUNINGS/SHOPS! If you think I'm still bias or not seeing what you're seeing. Please PM me & I'll be gladly read what you gotta say. If you still think I'm thick-headed, I'll be glad bring this up to other mods & admin to discuss about this. ichi |
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#52 |
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Banned
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Since the current version of unichip is so much better why is it not used on other Subaru's, EVOs or GTRs?
The answer to that question is because there's flash support available that will always be more powerful then a piggyback trying to hijack signals. That's fact. So unichip might be a option, but a reflash will always be my #1 choice. |
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#53 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2013
Drives: 2013 Whiteout Scion FR-S 6MT
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| The Following User Says Thank You to husker741 For This Useful Post: | Hawk77FT (05-04-2013) |
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#54 | |
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Banned
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But seriously what dealer has ever done anything about a ecu flash on a BRZ/FRS/GT86. -John |
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#55 |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Drives: E36 M3, Whiteout FR-S
Location: Portland OR
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Husker471… nicely said.
Even though this thread is off track, there continue to be “facts” posted that simply aren’t true. The “FYI” above, for example. Installing/removing a FT86 Unichip doesn’t reset, change, alter, or “unplug” the OE ECU in any way. “No footprint” means exactly that. You don’t have to sweat “miles since” or “time since” ECU data because it isn’t affected. I guess working on other types of cars means a company's FT86 kit is better? Ok, here’s Unichip’s list of supported brands… Alfa Romero, Audi, BMW, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet , Chrysler, Citron, Colt, Daewoo, Daihatsu, Dodge, Ducati, Ferrari, Fiat, Ford, Geely, General, Gonow, GMW, Harley, Holden, Honda, Hyundai, Infiniti, Isuzu, Iveco, Jaguar, Jeep, Kawasaki, Kia, Lamborghini, Lancia, Lotus, Mahindra, Maserati, Mazda, Mercedes, MG, MINI, Mitsubishi, MWM, Nissan, Nobel, Opel, Peugeot, Plymouth, Pontiac, Porsche, Proton, Renault, Rover, Saab, Seat, Skoda, Ssang Yong, Subaru, Suzuki, TAC Motors, Tata, Toyota, Volvo, VW, and Yamaha. Can any other product match that list? Half the list? One-quarter? In Toyota alone we have specific solutions for 215 different vehicles dating from the earliest ECU controlled engines to their 2013 vehicles. I’m not sure tuning an Iveco 65c18 and a Ferrari 360 Modena could be more different but a Unichip can tune both. That requires a very capable, flexible system… and, importantly, tuners that understand the system. Does everyone know that each month Toyota sells more 5.7L vehicles – which we support – than Subaru sells WRX’s AND STi’s AND Mitsubishi sells Evo’s AND Nissan sells GTR’s combined? Might not be as sexy as a GTR, but any guesses why we choose make 5.7L kits? This thread’s like debating blonds, brunettes, and red heads. Everybody has their favorites but they're not sure why. Just enjoy what you enjoy and don’t smack talk the others... especially if the snack talk is wrong. Cheers |
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#56 |
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Banned
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^ you support 5.7 Toytoa's because there's simply not a good enough flash if any available for that market.
I havent seen a unichip is a while, so there isn't a plug and play harness that inserts the unichip before the engine ecu? you have to cut wires? I would like to know so I'm not giving out incorrect info Thanks John |
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