ST Coilovers *Review from the Beginning*

[Ny Brz]

This can be done without a spring compressor, you can do it yourself but I recommend having another person there to push down so you can properly install that top nut. I have heard of guys trying to do it on their own and have the spring shoot back up.

[mike the snake]

The ST's are supposed to be exactly the same coilovers as the KW V-1's just with a different outer case material that's not as corrosion resistant.

The ST's (and KW's I think) use helper springs on the front at least, so no need for spring compressor. This is different than most other coilovers. Most others have both adjustable ride height AND preload. These have adjuster collars on both the spring, and the shock body so the two adjustments can be made seperately.

The ST's and KW's are only ride height adjustable I believe, with adjustment collars only on the spring. The helper spring takes up any slack, and preload is not adjustable.

[merino_frs]

So a question to all the guys who installed the st coilovers.
When changing the stock too hats to the new st coils is there any little tricks that might help ?

[Fizz]

Originally Posted by merino_frs

So a question to all the guys who installed the st coilovers.
When changing the stock too hats to the new st coils is there any little tricks that might help ?

First thing you need to do is get hold of a pass through socket set. A spring compressor will help but not neccesary if you have a buddy to help out. Take measurements of the spring seat adjuster collars prior to install....so that you know what the factory setting was. Then wind the collars down to the lowest point, this will make fitting the top mount easier as you don't need to push the springs down too much. Once top mount is fitted and top nut tightened, slowly wind the collars up to the factory setting/height.

Oh and the easiest way to remove top mounts from factory damper/strut is to loosen (but do not fully remove) the top nut whilst the car is still on ground. Then jack up car, support on stands, remove wheels, undo brake line clips, and remove strut bolts. Now remove top nut whilst holding the strut steady with other hand so it doesn't fall to ground. Now proceed to remove the top mount attachment nuts (3 for front, 2 for rear). Voila!

[Nevermore]

I doubt I'll be able to get an answer for this since it's pretty specific, but do you guys know if these would leave enough room over stock to fit 17x9 +45 wheels? I've been told they will rub unless I use spacers or coilovers. I don't really want to use spacers because I want to be flush.

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by merino_frs

So a question to all the guys who installed the st coilovers.
When changing the stock too hats to the new st coils is there any little tricks that might help ?

Originally Posted by Fizz

First thing you need to do is get hold of a pass through socket set. A spring compressor will help but not neccesary if you have a buddy to help out. Take measurements of the spring seat adjuster collars prior to install....so that you know what the factory setting was. Then wind the collars down to the lowest point, this will make fitting the top mount easier as you don't need to push the springs down too much. Once top mount is fitted and top nut tightened, slowly wind the collars up to the factory setting/height.

Oh and the easiest way to remove top mounts from factory damper/strut is to loosen (but do not fully remove) the top nut whilst the car is still on ground. Then jack up car, support on stands, remove wheels, undo brake line clips, and remove strut bolts. Now remove top nut whilst holding the strut steady with other hand so it doesn't fall to ground. Now proceed to remove the top mount attachment nuts (3 for front, 2 for rear). Voila!

Here's my method to torque the top nut to spec. Used a crow's foot socket on my torque wrench (easiest to position at 90 degrees according to http://www.motorcraftservice.com/ren...la_main_en.asp) which torqued the pass-through socket (pass-through extension as pictured may be needed for rear), and extra long hex bit to hold the rod. All tools were *in stock* at Harbor Freight for reasonably cheap. OEM spec is 41 ft-lbs; anyone know if ST specified a torque in the instructions?

[DrDuquette]

Thanks for the torque wrench formula website. Most Excellent

[ZEROSKULL]

Installed it on my car today. Worth every penny. The ride was as good as factory suspension! Thanks @vividracing / Jacky!

[*LongFella]

Originally Posted by ZEROSKULL

Installed it on my car today. Worth every penny. The ride was as good as factory suspension! Thanks @vividracing / Jacky!

Off topic...

If I'm not mistaken Zeroskull, your avatar photo is of one Marathon des Sable (MdS)??

What year did you run it? I ran in the big sand box in 2011. Been dying to go back!

[*LongFella]

Originally Posted by ZEROSKULL

Installed it on my car today. Worth every penny. The ride was as good as factory suspension! Thanks @vividracing / Jacky!

On topic...

How did the camber turn out? Will any major adjustments be needed?

[Ny Brz]

To be honest it's been awhile so I don't remember the exact degree camber, I think I still have the sheet thought some where, I believe mine was -2 cam.

[*LongFella]

Originally Posted by Ny Brz

To be honest it's been awhile so I don't remember the exact degree camber, I think I still have the sheet thought some where, I believe mine was -2 cam.

-2 after install?

Been debating the ST's over Megan's... Megan's has the camber plate for easy adjustment where the ST's don't. Although, I'm liking the reviews of ST's more and the fact they are pretty kw's with a different outside coating...

[*LongFella]

Anybody buy camber plates and use them with their ST setup?

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by *LongFella

Anybody buy camber plates and use them with their ST setup?

Not yet, but I plan on it personally.


Okay, so I got my alignment done. The only suspension mod I have are the ST coilovers...

With coilovers on, but not aligned I was at:
Front Left:
-1.9 camber
-0.16 Toe
5.4 Caster

Front Right:
-1.5 camber
-0.06 Toe
5.6 Caster

Rear Left:
-2.3 camber
0.15 Toe

Rear Right:
-2.2 Camber
0.26 Toe

AFTER:
Front Left:
-1.9 camber
0.00 Toe
5.4 Caster

Front Right:
-1.4 camber
0.00 Toe
5.6 Caster

Rear Left:
-2.5 camber
0.00 Toe

Rear Right:
-2.5 Camber
0.00 Toe

Im pretty happy with the way the car handles, but later down the road I plan on picking up adjustable camber plates to get more camber(more negative) up front, and some adjustable rear arms for the back to reduce camber.