Motul 300 Install Tips and Impressions

[mcrane]

Hey Guys,

As many of you may have read, changing the transmission and diff fluid in our cars is a vital maintenance procedure following the break-in period. This thread will discuss some tips that I have not seen mentioned in other threads, as well as my overall impressions following the swap.

Some background:
2013 FR-S
16,000 miles
First fluid change
Daily-driven/Autocross

Fluid used for both transmission & diff: Motul 300 Gear Oil 75W90 (4 Liters).

I followed the instructions found on this forum and the modbargains site. The procedure is pretty straight forward.


Procedure tips:

- Make sure vehicle is level

- When removing the skid-plate, make sure to keep track of the screws and where they go. The screws without the Phillips head screwdriver option belong in the front, where the fiber skid-plate goes under the metal one.

- The tranny fluid will come out fast, so make sure that you catch the plug, while ensuring that the washer doesn't fall off. Make sure to thoroughly clean the filler and drain plugs before reinstalling.

- No loc-tite or thread lock is necessary (in case anyone had that question).

- READ THE MOTUL FLEXIBLE NOZZLE COVER BEFORE REMOVING! My first bottle, I just unscrewed the cover and tried pouring. I could not understand why the flexible nozzle was so short, making clean pouring almost impossible. On my second bottle, I read the nozzle cover and found that you have to PULL THE NOZZLE OUT ALL THE WAY AND THEN UNSCREW THE CAP. This revealed a long, flexible pour nozzle. Much easier to pour.

- Filling can be a challenge until you get the right angle. Insert the nozzle all the way and angle the bottle about 45 degrees up, toward the front of the car, in between the transmission and frame. The bottle may get a tiny bit crushed, but not to worry. Squeeze the bottle to speed up the pour process, but pull out slightly after squeezing to avoid the liquid getting sucked back up.

- DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE FILLER AND DRAIN PLUGS!

- The Diff plugs can be quite rusty since they are exposed to the elements with no covers. I used some PB Blaster and a bit of muscle to crack the plugs loose.

- Pouring the diff fluid is a bit easier in that you can angle the bottle 45 degrees up with more room. The bottle wedges nicely between the axel and frame. Just wedge it and let it pour. Squeezing also helps as mentioned above.

- THROUGHOUT THE POURING I WAS SKEPTICAL WHEN I WOULD SEE SEEPING. INTERWEBS SAYS THATS HOW YOU KNOW ITS FULL. BUT I ALSO STUCK MY PINKY IN AND FELT FOR THE FILL LEVEL. IF YOU CAN FEEL THE FLUID WITH YOUR PINKY IN THE HOLE (GIGGITY), THEN ITS FULL.
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General First Impressions:

- The tranny plugs weren't too bad as far as contamination, but the fluid was black.

- The diff plugs were awful for contamination. These pictures tell the story...




- Shifting is no longer clunky. Instead shifts are precise and notchy.

- First gear is stiffer to get into from a dead stop, but it may just be that the fluid needs to settle and lubricate over time.



- Hope this helps

[Jyn]

Thanks for the tips. This is something I want to do as I've done a few AutoX and a track day and my shifting has become extremely notchy. Too bad I spent all my Christmas money on an oil cooler x___x

[mcrane]

Originally Posted by Jyn

Thanks for the tips. This is something I want to do as I've done a few AutoX and a track day and my shifting has become extremely notchy. Too bad I spent all my Christmas money on an oil cooler x___x

Plenty of time until AutoX season

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Does anyone know what fluid is used for the AT?

[FastWhite]

For the AT the manual calls out Toyota 'WS'. All other AT fluids MUST be equivalent to this standard. Redline D6 etc....
which I have 12qts for sale here. (Shameless plug I know)
Search on Google "ATF for a BRZ". This should come with lots info.


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