Bad night for the boosted FRS last night...

[mit_peid]

I was driving home on the 110S interchange to the 105W last night when I downshifted hard into 3rd taking it to redline to pass someone. I noticed a weird abnormal persistent noise shortly afterwards but wasn't sure what it was. Shortly afterwards I noticed the battery indicator light came on but the car still had a normal amount of power, able to go 75-80mph without issue. I considered pulling over but I didn't want to do so on the freeway nor did I want to get off at any of the ghetto Inglewood exits. I decided to go another exit or two (1-2 more miles) taking the 405S interchange to Rosecrans. That was when I noticed the water temp in the very H range and kept it in more less neutral to cruise and limp off the freeway for another ~1 miles. That was when a whole bunch of other lights came on (traction control, check engine, etc) coming off the exit. Power steering went out, but I was still able to propel it forward into a strip mall area right off the freeway. Coolant was all over the engine bay. I used my iPhone light and I was able to see the accessory belt was no longer on (although the Rotrex supercharger belt was still okay). Then I called AAA to get it towed the last 4 miles into my garage. It is sitting in my garage now and I'm trying to figure out what to do for my next step. Any ideas where to start? I'm guessing the accessory belt slipped off after the hard downshift and the water pump no longer worked so that's why it overheated? I have another car I can use to get to work tomorrow so I do not need to rush it in for someone to look at because I don't know a mechanic who I'd bring it into for this type of application/problem. I'm running a Kraftwerks C30 kit and haven't had a problem until now after about 10k miles.

[DJCarbine]

I think by timing belt you mean the accessory belt, sound like it failed and the alternator/Bat light came on, then with nothing to drive the waterpump the car overheated. PS still worked because its electronic, but likely failed when there was insufficient power to drive it as the battery was running everything at that point.

Best case would have been to pull over once the alt/bat light came on

Best case scenario now is it didn't overheat to the point of warping heads and you will be fine with a new accessory belt and refilling of the coolant. Can you tell where the coolant came from? Did it vent from the cap/overflow?

[Rapiddan45]

I would hope your referring to the serpentine belt which runs the alternator and water pump, and has nothing to do with the timing. Which sounds like that.
But I would go through and feel all the pulleys and make sure none are seized up, if the all spin freely a new serpentine belt should fix it. Hopefully the coolant that you saw everywhere is just from the overflow since it was so hot and not from the water pump.

[mit_peid]

My bad the accessory/serp belt not the timing belt.

[Rapiddan45]

Originally Posted by mit_peid

My bad the accessory/serp belt not the timing belt.

No worries.
Where was the coolant coming from?

[mit_peid]

From what I can tell I think the coolant was coming from that hole on the reservoir cause it was so hot. The actual coolant was still at the max line so probably didn't lose too much coolant yet.


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[mit_peid]

You can see the plastic alternator cover melting from the friction from the slipped belt here.


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[Rapiddan45]

Yeah I would just go through and check and make sure all your pulleys are all free spinning with no binds. Top off the coolant and throw a new belt on and fire it up.

[FlamingRectumSyndrome]

Check that the alternator pulley rotates freely.

From the sequence you describe, it could be that your alternator seized a bearing (initial odd noise and charging system light), causing the belt to overheat and eventually break (temperature going nuts and power steering failure some time after the initial event). The fact that the alternator's belt cover is melted says that something bad happened there to cause heat. A simple broken belt wouldn't do that.

[Tcoat]

Belt came lose started to make noise.
Top under cover moved over and just touched the cover enough to rub it and wear/melt it (nice arch hole not a random heat sink mark)
Not enough friction alternator not charging and get light.
Water pump not driven car over heats.
Power steering is electric (not belt driven pump) but drain on system drops power below required.
Belt eventually worked right off pulleys.


Best case = Fix belt check coolent all good.
Worst case = Damage (possibly major) to engine from overheating.

[wheelhaus]

How long has the supercharger system been installed? I'd also check the belt tensioner. Beyond the above recommendations to check all pulleys/bearings, I also wonder if the belt itself just failed, or if a weak/faulty tensioner allowed it to come loose at high rpm.

[mit_peid]

Doesn't seem like the alternator pulley is seized as it can freely rotate, but with the expected amount of weight. Here's a photo of the inside of the pulley cover. Any recommendations on brands for new belts? OEM or GATES?




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[Timmy_Jones]

I would call the vendor you bought the kit from and go with their recommendation.

[post_break]

I use a Gates blue belt. Like $65 or rock auto.