Adjustable Front Sway Bar settings...

[Churg]

Hey guys,

Building up my car for STX, slowly but surely. So far, I only had a catback and 17x9 +45 RPF1's with 245/40 Z2's on my car.

In order to combat the oversteer, I ordered a Whiteline 22mm Adjustable Front Sway Bar, that'll be getting here on Wednesday. I'd like to have the car rotate a little, so I was thinking of setting the sway bar to its softest setting, but honestly I am no expert at this sort of thing, and just wanted to see what other people are running out there and if you guys have any recommendations.

Next event is on May 3rd/4th, can't wait!

[Scooby South]

Try it at the softest setting.. I am in the middle right now. but its pretty easy to change the setting.. especially if you have battery impact gun..takes like 5 mins.. if that.

Bill

[Churg]

Originally Posted by Scooby South

Try it at the softest setting.. I am in the middle right now. but its pretty easy to change the setting.. especially if you have battery impact gun..takes like 5 mins.. if that.

Bill

Oh perfect, okay. You running a rear sway, too? Or just the front?

[Scooby South]

I have a "arsenal" of rear bars.. LOL right now I am using a 17mm STi OEM bar.. I have a WRX 16mm, a STi 18mm and Whiteline Adj 18-22...take your pick..LOL

[wparsons]

This is something you'll have to fine tune based on your preference and how the car feels, no one online will really be able to help too much.

I would try out all settings at the next event to see what you like best, it won't take much time to change the setting.

[Element Tuning]

You're going to get different answers but who's right? The guy that's winning I guess. LOL

I don't autocross so read between the lines. I run a Whiteline front bar at full stiff. I have custom valved and sprung my BC Racing coilovers to cater to running no rear sway bar. The reason to get your roll stifness up front is so that you "dig" the rear end in to fight that oversteer. Get more weight to the rear.

The other reason to ditch the rear bar is so that you don't pick up the inside rear wheel which unloads the torsen diff causing wheelspin or oversteer. You will have superior corner exit acceleration.

In road racing getting on the throttle earlier and harder drops lap times but rotation may be more important in autocross. I would think of you're not going to be able to get something custom valved like we sell, try your current setup with and without the rear bar, then put the stiffer of your springs in the rear, set your front Whiteline bar full stiff, and then run no rear bar. If you just ditch the rear bar without compensation with spring rate it may have too much rear roll hurting your turn in.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Element Tuning

You're going to get different answers but who's right? The guy that's winning I guess. LOL

I don't autocross so read between the lines. I run a Whiteline front bar at full stiff. I have custom valved and sprung my BC Racing coilovers to cater to running no rear sway bar. The reason to get your roll stifness up front is so that you "dig" the rear end in to fight that oversteer. Get more weight to the rear.

The other reason to ditch the rear bar is so that you don't pick up the inside rear wheel which unloads the torsen diff causing wheelspin or oversteer. You will have superior corner exit acceleration.

In road racing getting on the throttle earlier and harder drops lap times but rotation may be more important in autocross. I would think of you're not going to be able to get something custom valved like we sell, try your current setup with and without the rear bar, then put the stiffer of your springs in the rear, set your front Whiteline bar full stiff, and then run no rear bar. If you just ditch the rear bar without compensation with spring rate it may have too much rear roll hurting your turn in.

What size front sway are you running? 22mm?

[Element Tuning]

Originally Posted by solidONE

What size front sway are you running? 22mm?

Yes

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Element Tuning

Yes

About the rear sway. I've actually unhooked it at the track on a stock setup and really like the feel. The rear hooked up really really well and I could really stomp on the throttle mid corner, but since the springs and dampers were factory stock I also found that it would bottom and bounce off the bump stop with sustained cornering loads (skid-pad at SoWillow). What kind of rear spring rate would you estimate you need to make this kind of setup work? Bare minimum with sticky street tires. (Non-rcomps)

[Element Tuning]

Bare minimum 6kg in the rear.