Has anyone have this problem.......

[CSI:86]

I have a March 2013 build Toyota 86. Has 5500kms (3400 miles), had a oil and oil filter change at 2000kms with Mobil 1 5w30. Always filled up with BP ultimate 98RON (93AKI)

Recently, the weather here in Sydney Australia has been a bit chilly. About 10 degrees celsius on a 6am morning. I find the car takes quite a long time to start up. On a cold start, it takes a good 5 seconds for the car to start up. On a warm start, it starts instantly. This happens all the time on a cold start.

My girlfriend's 86 is a April 2012 build has 18000kms, has had two services with 0w20 castro Oil, very occasionally has the idle dip problem, but always starts immediately on a cold start. She only has a K&N filter in hers.

I have a takeda intake, Borla UEL and Unichip.

Is this to be of any concern?

EDIT: I have taken out the unichip. Still has the same problem. I press the start button twice to on mode, leave for 10 secs, clutch in press button... still takes 5 secs to crank up.

Will take it to the dealer soon.

EDIT 2: Mechanic and the dealer service centre says he is baffled. Everything is fine. It looks like they are going to lift the engine to look at spark plugs and ignition coils. If they are going to look at the spark plugs, i will be asking them to change the spark plugs to iridium NGK while they at it. Luckily, i only live 15 mins walk away from the dealer.

Funny thing was that the dealer was going to deny warranty since i had an intake and headers (took the unichip off) and i said "you gotta be joking me, intake and headers have absolutely nothing to do with this" and she says "i was joking, dont have to be angry about it". LOL

Any other suggestions what it may be before I take her in this Sat?

[whaap]

Perhaps something isn't quite right but I don't know that it's a problem. I seldom see cold weather where I live so an instant start is always my norm.

[Guillaume]

It's on a chilly morning start that the "0w" mentioned in the "0w20 ONLY" warning on the filler cap makes the most sense... I am guessing that deep down you're already thinking it: yes, you should flush your 5w30 and get some 0w20.

[s2d4]

Originally Posted by Guillaume

It's on a chilly morning start that the "0w" mentioned in the "0w20 ONLY" warning on the filler cap makes the most sense... I am guessing that deep down you're already thinking it: yes, you should flush your 5w30 and get some 0w20.

Yeap, this is rather common knowledge now.

[CSI:86]

Originally Posted by Guillaume

It's on a chilly morning start that the "0w" mentioned in the "0w20 ONLY" warning on the filler cap makes the most sense... I am guessing that deep down you're already thinking it: yes, you should flush your 5w30 and get some 0w20.

I had a oil change 3000kms ago. It should have had this problem earlier then. Synthetic oil is synthetic oil, it will flow quickly. 5w30 can even start well below 0 degrees celsius.

I do 5w30 because it has a higher load rating than 0w20.

[Simpleviet]

"....Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):
• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows
cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier
starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when
the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a
higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high
speeds, or under extreme load conditions....."

Manual for FRS and BRZ

[CSI:86]

Originally Posted by Simpleviet

"....Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):
• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows
cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier
starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when
the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a
higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high
speeds, or under extreme load conditions....."

Manual for FRS and BRZ

I had Mobil 1 5w30 in my 370z and it would start instantly in snowy weather lower than 0 degrees celsius. I dont think the oil can be the culprit...

[OnkelC]

Yes, it can be. Especially if Toyota mandates it for the 86.

[Simpleviet]

There's many threads about oil definitely should ask in there. Save the trouble here a thread for your kind of oil.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7443

For the idle dip. Should search it I know I read some owners having the idle dip fluctuating up and down. I forgot what they did after. Good luck

Anthony

[Freetime]

Originally Posted by CSI:86

I had Mobil 1 5w30 in my 370z and it would start instantly in snowy weather lower than 0 degrees celsius. I dont think the oil can be the culprit...

Because you clearly know more than the Toyota/Subaru engineers. Especially when yours isn't working right...

Only way to figure it out is to start changing things one a time until it doesn't do it anymore. Maybe you should start by changing your oil....

[zc06_kisstherain]

like others said, i am assuming its oil

[celica73]

It's not the oil.

I'd blame the Unichip and/or the intake first. Or, there is an actual problem. Put 5W30 into your girlfriends car and nothing will change.

10 C (50F) isn't even cold.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by celica73

I'd blame the Unichip and/or the intake first.

This.

[CSI:86]

Originally Posted by celica73

It's not the oil.

I'd blame the Unichip and/or the intake first. Or, there is an actual problem. Put 5W30 into your girlfriends car and nothing will change.

10 C (50F) isn't even cold.

What should i look for in the unichip and/or intake that may cause the problem?

The intake is installed properly, all bolts screwed tight.

The unichip is installed properly, all the wiring put into the correct sensors. I have the takeda intake map on with Premium 92 octane Fuel - Timing + map (most aggressive fuel map)