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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Drives: 2013 Scion FRS 6 Speed Raven Black
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Opinion on brake rotors.
Hey guys, quick question. I'm going to Hawk HP+ brake pads front and rear. Burnt up my stockers on a track day (Already had 25k miles on them but no complaints). I was thinking about doing rotors, lines, and fluid all at the same time. I know that the HP+ can be a little hard on the rotors. My thoughts are putting the Duralast Gold series rotors on.
http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...1_208602_2708/ Just over $100 bucks for rotors and a 3yr waranty. I know on past cars that if you buy their rotors (or other parts for that reason) if they need to be replaced within warranty they do it no questions asked. I would feel less bad about pads eating the rotors or doing a track day every now and again. Just looking for input on this idea.
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#2 |
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Because compromise ®
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I thought warranty covered defective items not normal wear and tear.
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My car is completely stock except for all the mods.
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#3 | |
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If you wear them out, it's covered. If you wear them out every week or something, you're going to have issues... Nope, normal wear is covered, but not expressly publicized. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Poodles For This Useful Post: | Captain Snooze (01-10-2015) |
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#4 | |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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If you burned up OEM pads at a track day, the HP+ is not a substantial ugprade; you're still gonna need to upgrade again. |
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#6 |
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I'd just keep the stock rotors until they get near minimum thickness. I like the HP+ pads for track use on my stock s2000, love the initial bite and I never had any issues with overheating them. Definitely way better than oem, and I didn't notice any significant increase in rotor wear. Definitely worth trying IMO. If it turns out you need higher temp pads then Carbotech XP8 or XP10 should do the job.
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#7 | |
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Quote:
Was thinking on some brake upgrade but no the BBK, more like cooling ducts. Already new pads, lines and fluid, no fade, at all but the rotors (front) keep getting new colors every weekend, no crack up to date. Maybe I do NEED a BBK after all but I'm not amuse with the replacement cost of those pads/rotos... Only 3 times at the track (work doesn't let go away all day) but back roads at least 2 times/week... Anyway thanks and take care. |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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OEM rotors are ~125, Sprint Rotors are $165. Sprint BBK pads are usually 10-15% higher in cost, but are nearly 2x the size. Do you have any pictures of your rotors? |
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#9 | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Poodles For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (01-11-2015) |
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#10 |
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Thank you for the input, your insight on brake set ups is always nice to get. I probably used the wrong verbiage in my description. By "wear them out" I meant crack, gouge, etc. I also didn't really burn them up, like I said the stock pads have 27k+ miles on them. After this track day on friday I "burnt up" what I did have left and am needing new pads here very soon. Just figured I would swap fresh rotors onto fresh pads. I didn't know if the increase in carbon on the Duralast rotor would be a nice upgrade over OEM rotors with the HP+ pads. Like I said the car is DD, and increased brake noise with the HP+ is not an issue for me. A BBK is not warranted under my power levels and current daily routine/track track use. My thought process is that if I get the new rotors at around $110 and do somehow crack them, once I get them replaced under warranty even once, the savings alone would be worth it to me.
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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If you go this route, I recommend you get a second set of rotors to swap on, and take it with you to the track, so that you don't suffer downtime. You can use the second set, while you get the first one warrantied, and then use the warranty set as a spare. Don't forget to account for the time cost of your own labor. Swapping hot brakes in the desert heat sucks. If you do need to change em at the track, make sure it's all cooled down enough to be held by bare hands. Hot metal is more malleable, and it's very easy to strip/damage threads when the brake system is hot. |
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