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| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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#1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Drives: GT86 MT aero stock
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Does stock FT86 require brakes upgrade for track use?
I drive stock GT86, got no plans to power it up.
I plan to use it for track days (15min sessions). Heard stories (about cars other than 86) that their brakes fade, so I worry about it - it can end in a crash. Do I need big brake kit for 86? Or should I try to overheat the brakes first and then plan to upgrade them? |
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#2 |
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This is a very common topic, covered in detail.Stock pads and fluid will overheat once you're past a certain level - and it's not a particularly high level. Selecting pads for your skill level, tire, setup, etc. is the requirement. And use brake fluid for the purpose (plus regular attention). A BBK is not required, but at some point will help you manage costs - better at dealing with heat, and more consistent, etc.
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Second chance build... or whatever it is.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Drives: 2014 GT86
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On twins stock brakes are rather good. For short 10-15min sessions (which also imho are good to stick on, as for enthusiasts max attention/concentration level often drops off after that due physical & mental tiredness) on reasonable grip tires you should be ok with just better pads & fluid.
If you will be taxating brakes more, as in longer sessions, very grippy slick tires & heavy aero & thus higher speeds, installed forced induction and so on, then i'd think of ways to enhance braking, as in add brake air-ducts, upgrade to BBK and alike. Though, while stock brakes are good enough for few trackdays in mostly daily driven vehicle, there might be few other good points for BBKs if you go to track very often. Such as often good BBK wearables (rotors & pads) might be of more common shape and of cheaper then eg. OEM spares. Often BBKs are also lighter, and reducing unsprung rotational weight is always good. From cons of BBKs might be worse wheel compatibility/clearance sometimes requiring using spacers or buying different sized wheels, also due lack of dust boots and due different metals in multi-piece rotors there might be more often issues with corrosion, especially in places where salt is thrown on roads during winters. More heat capacity may also mean that you may never get pads to working temps when simply daily driving, thus wearing off bedded layer, and thus squeaking brakes like idiot at each traffic lights stop. To summarize, stock brakes are good and capable enough for short track sessions. You still need better pads (OE easy to overheat/glaze) & higher boiling temp brake fluid. If you so far have yet to track yours, i can advise also thinking of better performance alignment for more grip & better grip bias & more even tire contact patch & wear. |
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#4 | |
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The Fail Boat
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Quote:
Get better pad and brake cooling dust & oil cooler + good rubber. You should be good. Seeing that you are in russia....... It's not like 35 degree C/100F + there.
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#5 |
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+1 pads and fluids, nothing else until you're very experienced.
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#6 |
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thanks a lot.
Got a hi-temp fluid and Hawk HP Plus |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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Also it's not that if brake fade happens as switch. One should feel how in after heating brakes too much they gradually brake worse and needs to press them more .. when you feel it, just do cooling off lap drive to pits for some coffee & cigarette
. At same time at pits you may wish to check air pressure in tires and maybe let some excess due track use heat out.
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#8 |
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I used WinMax and Stoptech pads to replace the stock pads after my first track sessions. I also flushed out the stock brake fluid with a higher quality fluid. So far the best results with pads are the WinMax W2 and Project MU brake fluid. The stoptech brakes don't seem to perform as well as the W2's but the W2's create much more dust with everyday use and are more aggressive on rotor wear but wow they perform very well for everyday and track use. The rotors are not expensive so it's worth it in the long run.
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