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Originally Posted by SMOKETREES
Do you see a lot of tire wear or pretty reasonable?
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I just checked my street tires (OE). They're pretty even, within 0.5/32nds between inside and outside of the tread (overall they're around 7.5/32nds after 10k miles). My autocross tires are another story, they wear much more on the outside, which is a sign of not enough negative camber (wearing on the inside of the tread would mean the opposite).
Setting camber for performance driving is a matter of the tires' lateral grip capacity and the roll resistance of the suspension setup (spring rates + anti-roll bar rate). Soft setups like mine (stock springs with a modest 20mm FSB) will require more static negative camber to counteract the effects of body roll on the tires' contact patch. Stickier tires will put more force in the suspension, causing more body roll.
Rear negative camber tends to be a compromise, since static camber in the rear will detract from the ability to accelerate (In our RWD cars) and brake in a straight line (front camber affects braking too). Lowering the twins will cause a negative camber gain in the rear, and it's not always even between sides. Without aftermarket parts, it's kind of a crapshoot as to what any particular car will get.
When setting camber for street driving, driving style is probably a much bigger influence, since you won't always be driving 10/10ths (hopefully). If the car is driven in straight lines all day on the freeway the camber wear will show up much more than a car that sees a lot of aggressive cornering.
I hope this helps give you an idea of how to proceed with your setup. A controlled environment can be great for fine-tuning a setup.
P.S. To really get into this, a discussion of dynamic camber is probably warranted. That's a whole big can of worms. Ugh.