Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdTRD
Check the fuse in the Edlebrock pump harness to make sure someone didn't stick the wrong fuse in there, should be 7.5A.
Are the wires melted anywhere else besides the end?
Check the crimp on both lugs going to that post (Edlebrock and OEM) make sure they are solid, a loose connection would generate the heat in that spot.
When current is opposed (resistance), the result is heat. Loose connection = high(er) resistance = heat.
If you have the tools, I would even go as far as to re-crimp a new lug on the Edlebrock harness to ensure it's good.
Visually inspect the wiring harness going from that terminal to the Edlebrock fuse and the OEM wire feeding the fuse box. If something rubbed thru prior to the fuses/fuse box and was intermittently grounding out, that could do it.
If you have a multi meter, with the battery disconnected, meter set to measure resistance, connect one lead to a good chassis ground and the other lead to the nut on the fuse block that connects to the + side battery post and start wiggling and poking the wire harness(s) (Edlebrock and OEM to fuse box) and see if the resistance jumps around. Should be 0 ohms and stay there, or very close to 0. If it jumps around, you have a short somewhere in that harness.
Electrical problems are challenging, even when you're hands on, nearly impossible over the internet. You might end up having to take it somewhere.
|
Confirmed edelbrock fuse is a 7.5 amp. Crimps are solid, and they appear to have always been solid. Wiring other than at the ends looks to be in great shape. All grounds etc that I could find appear to be bolted in well. The only question is whether or not the nut that held the oem and edelbrock eye bolts was tight.... because it melted the surrounding plastic it was somewhat solid in there when I found it, but I can't tell if that was just melted plastic or if it was tight before the event.
The contact points for the OEM/edelbrock eye bolts are toasty and have plastic left over from where they melted the harness piece that connects to the positive terminal. I'll definitely need to replace the harness thing on the positive terminal -but I'm hoping to identify a root cause before swapping stuff and attempting to run the car again.
I don't have a multi-meter nor experience with them but I can get one and work on wiggling things to see what happens.
I'd happily take my car somewhere I could trust, but I'm not aware of anyone local.... Dealerships would no doubt balk at the amount of mods (nor do I trust them), and I'm not familiar with any mod friendly shops in the area. Anyone know any good shops in NE ohio? I've always been quite savvy and done all of my own work, going as far as building motors in other platforms etc.... but I'm not versed in troubleshooting electric gremlins.
FYI I added more photos to the folder specific to the question you asked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by radroach
Could definitely be from a poor connection to the terminal, you get a voltage drop as load increases, requires more amps increase to make up for it, heat increases, and then your wires start to melt and the power steering fuse pops.
The way you have the wire connected, it might not be perfectly flush. Make sure you don't have any washers on the connector.
Though surprising that it would melt like that , if its only a 7.5A fuse, then might be something else like a short.
|
Perhaps this is as simple as the nut came slightly loose. Nothing else was loose and no washers present. If I can't find any smoking guns I suppose I'll swap the melted terminal harness thing and try to put it all back together and see what happens.
Unrelated but does anyone know where the power steering fuse is?
Thanks again for the suggestions, appreciate everyone's help