Quote:
Originally Posted by wparsons
Once again, ALL the answers you're after have been covered if you just bothered to search. Don't get pissed off at people that are trying to help just because you don't like their answers or don't understand them.
What else would it compromise? My WHOLE point about the front was that a bent strut would directly change camber even without a difference in ride height.
Unless one side is significantly lower than the other, lowering it didn't accentuate the difference left to right (also known as cross camber). Stop blaming the springs for this unless there really is a big difference in ride height. Your car was probably out by this much before, but since you didn't have it aligned you never noticed.
By measuring between two points that don't rely on the tire... like fender to center of hub or fender to ground. Again, search before asking for people to spoon feed you every.single.answer!
The ugh was definitely required because you're not actually reading what people are telling you. You asked why the camber is different left to right, and mentioned someone told you a bent strut would do it. First, it's not a strut in the rear. Second, if you actually read what people (myself included) have told you, you'd understand better.
Is that on the side with more camber, or the other side?
Not at all unless you're taking measurements. Did you notice before it went on the alignment rack after installing the springs?
"Looks good and symmetrical" without accurate measurements means nothing with an alignment. A difference of 1.5* would be about 1/4" difference at the top of the wheel, there's simply no way you can eyeball that while looking at the suspension arms. The difference in length between the arms/mounting points would be like 1/16".
You did all that, but still haven't measured ride height? Start looking at basic things first instead of just repeating what you've already done.
Did you take the other advice that someone suggested and have a friend push or pull to try to add or remove camber while torquing all the bolts down?
On the side with too much camber, have the friend pull out on the top of the wheel as hard as they can while every bolt on the UCA and LCA is torqued down (from loose, not from hand tight). On the other side have them push in on the top of the wheel as hard as they can. There's a bit of wiggle room in every connection before the bolts are torqued and you just might be able to even out the camber a bit. There's not guarantees, but if you're already taking stuff apart multiple times you might as well try this.
That said, you won't be able to see the difference so you'll have to spend money on another alignment to check it. By the time you try a bunch of options and have it aligned again, you would've been better off to just buy the LCA set and do it right.
Put 10 stock cars on an alignment rack and I bet 7 or 8 will be off by at least 0.5*, with at least a couple being out by more than 1*.
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There are no riddles, you're just not taking the time to read and comprehend properly.
If you're not prepared to keep spending, stop modifying anything or deal with it being "good enough". Put the stock springs back in and get it aligned and see how much it's still out.
Start with ride height measurements at all four corners while the car is resting on a really flat surface.
It would only take a very minimal bend to be out by 1.5* side to side, no one is going to see that in pictures.
I'm not going to answer this one beyond SEARCH. There is a canadian distributor, but you're going to have to do some leg work for once.
Again with not fully reading what you're told. It was me that told you that you MIGHT be limited to how much front camber you can get without camber plates by your wheel/tire specs. I have -2.3* up front with really tight clearance. Got there with Whiteline bolts in the top hole of the knuckle and some slight slotting of the hole.
You have +35 which gets you 10mm more clearance, but you're also running a 245 which in theory is 20mm wider than my 225's, BUT depending on what tire you have it could be more or less of a difference. Cutting that 20mm in half (since it'll bulge equally in and out) wipes out the 10mm extra you have from your offset. If your 245's aren't a full 20mm wider, you'll have more clearance, but if they're more than 20mm wider you'll have less.
You could add 10mm spacers, but then you need longer studs.
Again, after reading more of your posts... don't get camber plates. They all make some noise due to the lack of any bushings, and you'll just be on here complaining about the noise and how to fix it.
Get as much camber as you can up front without rubbing the tire on the spring perch, how much that is will depend very much on your specific car and no one online can tell you that answer, then go with 0.5* less in the rear. If you're maxed out at -2* up front, then -1.5* in the rear. If you can get to -2.2* up front, then go with -1.7* in the rear, etc.
Again, you're not reading what people are telling you.
If you had looked at the diagram, you'd notice that the upper control arm AND lower control arm AND trailing arm AND toe arm are all both bolted to the subframe. You could set the entire rear alignment with the subframe out of the car.
What does that mean? It means that if the sub frame is slightly shifted left or right (or front or back) on the chassis it won't cause the camber variance you have.
If the subframe itself is bent, the mount point for the UCA or LCA could be moved and THAT could cause a difference in camber. Or if either LCA or UCA is bent, it could be causing it.
Now up front a shifted subframe can change camber because the upper mounting point for the struts is the body. That means shifting the sub frame changes the relative position between the upper and lower mounting points. You can't do the front alignment with the sub frame out of the car.[/QUOTE]
First off. I dont get why were talking about the front struts. And youre not reading what i said!!! I said i CAN (not cant) see how bend in front strut would directly effect camber?!
Im not saying the springs CAUSED it. Immsaying they EXCENTUATED it. As in with the car having LESS wheel gap. Its EASIER. To see camber variance.
Ding is on side with more negative camber.
I noticed before alignment
Yes i tried the push and pull texhnique when i re did the rears yesterday seems maybe a bit better. Hard to say
I am ordering spc lcas and will be installin before i get another alignment. Also some whiteline bolts.
I searced on google for ft86 speed factory vendor as the search function in this forum is terrible.
I found ft86motorsports? Thats the candian vendor? 286$ shipped for lcas is really good!
Ill measure ride height after work
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