Thread: Oil Cooler
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:32 PM   #3
ryoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by go_a_way1 View Post
I have a Mishimoto setup and it works great for me. I didn't bother prime it. something you need to know is it is a normally open thermostat that means it starts to close when it heats up (this is what forces more oil to the core) in winter I remove the thermostat all together as even at full open it still forces more oil to the core then what I want. No leaks since a failed install attempt (forgot to tighten all the banjo fittings lol! pissed oil everywhere) I do not bother empty the core during oil change intervals. Also oil will always be flowing to the core so dont worry about it going "bad" in the core. Install is super easy if you are a hands on guy. The hard part is dealing with all the extra hose you get. Sandwitch plates are only gold for thermostatic application. Hex screws leaking was fixed with Teflon tape installed by them.

sorry for another poorly laid out crude answer from Go_a_way1 but I think I got all your questions. Anymore quote me or you can always PM me too.
oh, I guess my knowledge on the thermostatic plate is backwards. I thought it was always closed until the oil reaches temperatures, then opens to start the oil flow through the cooler. did you bother with screwing the bottom of the cooler into the undertray? with what the mishimoto installation video shows, they say that it is optional. however, then the oil cooler would be only held on by the top bracket with pop clips... doesn't seem that secure to me. the reason why I'm opting for the Mishimoto is that the core is mounted on the crash beam and not just the undertray like the Perrin, and that it has the banjo fittings to have more room for an intake. I am not too confident on a sole undertray mounting for the core just in case I rip the undertray out while going off the track or something, plus the extra weight will just cause more of that dreaded bumper gap
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