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Originally Posted by AaronCompNetSys
I was referring to how torsen is full lock or not locked, none of this gradual stuff that you get with clutch type.
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I think you need to study up a bit more on how a torsen diff works....
They don't LOCK, the torque biasing is limited (typically ~3-5:1), and depends on torque application.
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For playing around in my car, I don't see a need to have a "threshold" of slip before it starts to lock. Lock it up under power, and take your yaw into your own hands 
I'm not being all that serious, I know that isn't for newbs and its not for everyone.
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You've got it backwards, Torsens *are* for newbs, which is why they come in more cars from the factory (Miata, S2000, etc.). Not many (any?) cars come from the factory with clutch-types, and it's not because they're too newb friendly!
I've driven both in multiple cars. My 255rwhp 240Z had a clutch-type, my S2000 has the stock torsen, my 500+hp FD has a Torsen T2R.
The Clutch type does have the advantage of continuing to drive the wheel on the ground when the other wheel is airborne (T2R also does this, but not most Torsens...).
Clutch types are usually shimmable to give you pretty much as much bias as you want, up to locked. You can EASILY have them WAY more "hardcore" than Torsens.
My preference for clutch types is to run the minimum breakaway initial torque I can get away with and rely more on the ramps to provide lockup under power.
Never agreed with the approach of shimming the bejeezus out of them to the point that you may as well have welded the diff!
Anyway, I like whatever diff always allows me to put the power down to both drive wheels without inducing too much understeer or otherwise acting goofy for no good reason.