Quote:
Originally Posted by humdizzle
if you want the most performance buy a manual.. simple as that.
The auto
1) can't launch
2) has taller gearing for gas mileage and so acceleration is worse
3) does not shift as quickly
4) you can't clutch kick
5) weighs more
6) resale value will likely suffer.
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So much fail.
The less 3 points are a joke so won't even bother with those.
Why would anyone want to "launch" a 2.0L N/A? For some slow-ass wheel spin?
This is on 205/55R16 tyres and zero tuning... about 3sec faster than all the MT's.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_CEqiyVFyM&list=PLWvs8esiZx21goKWEJE4xRVv vU-lG8xlG&index=8"]2014 Slidewize Skidpan Time Trial Toyota 86 BRZ FRS - YouTube[/ame]
Acceleration is about the same, depending how you tune it. You can easily keep it above 4500rpm in 2nd and 5000rpm in 3rd if you're lucky with corner exits. Sometimes with long ratios and the wrong corner you may have to shift down for 1000rpm.
Car in front is MT with SC and 4.55 FD, about 140kW. Mine is on E85, about 125kW.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpGB-tDmx18&list=PLWvs8esiZx21goKWEJE4xRVvvU-lG8xlG&index=1"]2015 Queensland Raceway Clubman Lap Toyota 86 BRZ FRS - YouTube[/ame]
AT shift time = 0.3s.
http://datazap.me/u/wayne/v48-5-dry-...mark=2563-2567
MT shift ... 0.7s
http://datazap.me/u/harro/willowbank...rk=15370-15378
And another ... 1.3s
http://datazap.me/u/lipton54321/v44-...1&mark=696-710
And another ... 0.9s
http://datazap.me/u/notrq/30-04-15-v...mark=4771-4780
Any tool is only as good as the hands you put it in. Most people can't shift in 0.3s every time without breaking something sooner or later and AT is much easier for consistency.
Another video for fun:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leeAzSWHE_c&index=2&list=PLWvs8esiZx21goKW EJE4xRVvvU-lG8xlG"]2015 Queensland Raceway Clubman Skylines - Toyota 86 BRZ FRS - YouTube[/ame]
My car has an ATF cooler, throttle map from the MT, 7550 soft rev limiter, on E85. The AT works flawlessly.
Downsides are:
1. You have to make sure you tune the engine so you have enough headroom to stay in the power band.
2. 6th is okay but 5th is way too long and much closer to 6th than it is to 4th to the point of useless on track if you had a shorter FD.
For 4000-7500rpm powerband...
AT:
1. 32-61 kph
2. 56-106 kph
3. 82-154 kph
4. 116-217 kph
MT has:
2. 53-100 kph
3. 76-142 kph
4. 95-180 kph
5. 116-217 kph
You can see why you need to tune it correctly to make the power band as wide as possible. There's not much headroom between 1-2 and 2-3. I'm not sure if I would ever put EL headers on the AT and not eliminate the torque dip.
That may sound like you have less usable gears, also being that AT 4th 1:1 is the same as MT 5th 1:1. BUT the AT also has a usable 1st gear for autox/skidpan. Good luck changing down to 1st in a MT at 50kph/30mph. Effectively making it have the same number of usable gears at MT, just with different ratios.
You can also downshift later when braking.
AT and MT are different tools and you use them differently. Even though the performance is actually about the same, you can hardly compare them.