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LCAs needed for SuperDown/Sportlines?
So I'm planning to lower my car on either Eibach Sportlines or RSR Superdowns. The drops are over an inch and from what I've read, there will be quite some camber in the rear. I'm trying to get 0 toe and as little camber as possible to prolong the life of the tires. I understand that even with a bit of camber, the tire life will only decrease by a small amount.
So here's the main question.. Would LCAs be necessary? Could I just get an alignment with stock parts and get 0 toe and less camber? I'm just wondering if 400-500$ LCAs would outweigh the cost of slightly decreased tire life. Anyone running Superdowns or Sportlines for daily driving, please chime in with your set-up and tips/recommendations! |
You can get a little adjustment with 12mm eccentric bolts in the back (I think that's right, anyway,) but if you want ready adjustment, LCA's are worth it.
That said, proper camber adds so much to the driving experience, I have to say you should take what you get and focus on evening it only... And get bolts or camber plates to add as much as you can on the front. :) |
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Only reason I ask is because I came across a set of LCAs and I can sell them for a 400$ turnaround, but not sure if that 400$ is a good sell or it's better to keep them and use. Without any aftermarket bolts, would the camber be a noticeable difference with wheels that wide? Can toe be adjusted without LCAs? |
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With that wheel setup you are going to understeer anyway, but may have fitment issues without negative camber in the back, and may need to add over what the springs will add to avoid rubbing. Wheels won't change camber though. Staggered wheels hurts handling. Add that to lots of rear camber, little front, its going to... Suck. The information to help you is here for the finding, and I'm a little unsure you're heading towards a setup that will work (as in, fit without rubbing.) |
im using SPC rear control arms. highly recommend them to fix your rear camber. i was -2.2 on the natural drop of my sportline springs, i'm running -1.0 in the rear now
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Definitely going to kill the "fun" factor of the car for the looks factor :\ |
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If you're going to run wheels that wide you'll likely need the coilovers, and I'd bet your camber setting will be solely dependant on making those cartoonishly big wheels not rub. The eccentric bolts get you about half a degree plus or minus. You'll likely need more range than that, but I'm not sure and nobody else can be sure until you get the wheels, set your ride height and see. Check the meaty tire thread and see what other like minded people are doing to make it work and how much they had to adjust. |
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If lowering on springs, there camber might be a different degree on each side right?
Is there anyway to correct camber with stock parts to make it even at least? Not necessarily getting rid of it, but just making it even. Let's say I lower and it's -20 and -15 or something. |
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As was mentioned, 12mm camber bolts can be installed in the rear lower control arm inner mounting point to get plus or minus ~half a degree. That should be enough to even things out. |
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Can install be done by myself? I heard there's a bushing or something that's really hard to work around, or something lol I forgot. |
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Being honest with your goals is good. I'm not into widebody or staggered superwide wheels, but people like that. Do take the time to research. Offset and clearance and many things need attention. If you can afford all this stuff, consider RS-R's coilovers vs springs, for example. They'll give you a lot more space for those wheels/tires. C |
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Thanks everyone! |
btw, the -22.2 was most likely a typo. his camber is most likely -2.22. I have -1.5 already in the rear and I haven't done anything suspension-wise.
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