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Alignment with stock suspension + camber plates

94 views but no responses? What am I missing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat (Post 2357863)

Adjust the plate for course adjustment, and bolt for fine adjustment. Of course, you can use just the plate, without the bolt, as well, if you can get to the range you need.

Tracking the car? Assuming sticky-ish tires, -3 front -2.4 rear. You'll need a rear LCA for this.

The most probable reason for no answers, is that this question comes up all the time. I do understand the search function is not the most useful...

Thanks, Mike. If I don't have LCAs and am therefore limited to stock rear camber, what do you think the most camber I should do in front is?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat (Post 2360521)

Thanks, Mike. If I don't have LCAs and am therefore limited to stock rear camber, what do you think the most camber I should do in front is?

Still -3, but expect the rear to be a little looser.

Can I ask you what kind of tire,wheel setup you're planning to run on your BRZ w/ OEM suspension?

See below for the answers:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat (Post 2357863)

I can't believe I don't see a thread on this topic already, so I guess I'll start my own. My BRZ is on OEM suspension. I already have crash bolts and will soon be adding camber plates to it. Immediately after installation of said plates I will be getting an alignment. Here are my questions:
1. Camber will now be adjustable at the top (plate) and bottom (bolt). Which should be adjusted first? Or should they just leave the camber bolt (presumably) maxed out where it is now and only adjust with the plates?

I couldn't get more than -1.7 with the camber bolts then so I had to go with an aftermarket coilovers. I'd much rather stay OEM if it was a bit more adjustable

2. What should my goal be for front and rear camber, given the suspension is stock? I like the balance of the car as it is now and don't want it to be super loose at the track. I would be comfortable with it loosening up a little, just not drastically.

depends on the tires, check the specs of the tire you are planning to go with but I'd opt for more than -2.5 F and -2.0 R to fully utilize the more aggressive tires. I also wouldn't match an extremely soft compound with the OEM struts (RS3, Direzza ZII, RE71s and/or NT01 all would be good choices imo).

3. Should I run different camber on the street vs. track? I'm guessing not, since I'm still on street tires at the track.
My concern is adding significant front camber without adding any in the rear. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

I am not concerned with the added camber on the street since I didn't notice any abnormal wear when I use both OEM tires and NT01 and secondly tires are relatively cheaper on these cars and waaay cheaper than Vettes :)

FYI, I've been running Fortune Auto 500 coilovers (9k F /9k R springs) and by combining that with a 1.25" drop and maxing out the camber plates which came with FA coilovers, I was only able to get about -3.1 F and -2.3 R camber.. I still need to raise my car about at least another .25" so it will probably cost me a few more degrees up front

FWIW when I was running ~2.5 degrees on the street I hopped out after a short drive to see how they were wearing after several hundred miles, no significant wear at that point but when I felt them the inside edges were hot while the rest of the tire was cool. If you're concerned about tire longevity I'd go back to less camber for street driving via camber plate adjustment, mine are easily done in 5 minutes and the change in toe is unnoticeable from the butt dyno- I mean butt alignomometer as well as confirmed when I got it aligned last time, went from -1.1 to -2.7 with the biggest toe number being 5/32" (still within factory specs iirc).

Hey guys, thanks so much for sharing your experience and wisdom with me.
I can't get more than about 1.2 degrees of camber up front with only crash bolts. That's why I went with camber plates.
For the rest of this summer I'll be burning up the remainder of my HTRZ-IIIs. Not a great tire, but it gets the job done. Next spring I'll be on something like an RS3/RE71 or perhaps RC1. More than likely RS3/RE71, though.
It sounds like I should shoot for zero toe all around (no change) and get as much camber at both ends as I can. Well, I guess there really is no camber adjustment at the rear right now for my car. I expect this will be 2.5 to 3 up front. I'll keep an eye on inner shoulder wear the rest of this summer.
After the OEM shocks become less effective in a year or two, , I'll likely be on T2s with something like an RC1.
Again, thanks for the help. Sorry my search skills must need a little improving.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pat (Post 2361018)

You're comparing three completely different tires.

While the RE71R is marketed as a 200TW tire, it certainly doesn't grip or wear like one. It's much more on par with the typical 80TW.

Thanks, Mike. I'm aware of this. I'm not running my first choice in tires, and may not next year either. The same can be said of suspension. It is a slow process to get the car to where I want it, as I have other priorities.