Internals Upgrade Question
 

So I know the Triplets have weak internals beyond stock, but I was thinking and assuming that if I were to replace the pistons without the block, that it would be pointless, right?

I'd like to replace all of it eventually for a turbo setup, and I figure I should probably buy the whole kit, not pistons then a block later on. Fancy pistons in the stock block is pointless right, because the block will still be the weakest link?

Or I should say, just getting pistons is kind of pointless, right?

Please only adult answers. I'm stupid, retarded, a fkn idiot, and I will kill myself after a couple answers, I already know this (thanks to the interwebs and its logic) so feel free to leave those responses out, thanks.

The stock rods seem to be the weakest link in the FA20. Some can run over 400whp though. The block seems to hold up fine but the rods usually snap and punch a hole in the block


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Awesome thank you. I was assuming because the block breaks it was weak, but the pistons are issue.
I plan on getting the sbd turbo and the want make 100% sure it's still reliable. I've heard plenty of fi horror stories so I'd like to avoid my own.

Thanks again for the info.

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Don't worry, this is a friendly place for learning. :lol:

You'll be fine on the SBD kit without replacing any internals as long as the install is correct. I'd recommend running a thicker oil for FI, search the forum; lots of insight on that. If you plan on upgrading the turbo or raising the boost later on, keep reading.

1) The stock pistons are not the weak point. The stock connecting rods let go long before the pistons do. They need replacing the worst. If they break, your engine will have holes in it.

2) You will not break the engine block. You just won't. It's fine and does not need replaced. There are no aftermarket replacements (If somebody brings up the TODA Japan closed-deck block without a picture of it in their hands, I will kill you. I will break an FA20 connecting rod off in your ass.) :paddle:
You can get replacement sleeves, but unless you're increasing displacement, there's no point. Repeat: you will not break the block.

3) The stock crankshaft is fine, unless you're increasing stroke, leave it. You will not break it.

4) All aftermarket FI pistons lower compression to increase detonation resistance. You will need custom tuning, you will need to run more boost to make the same power, and you will lose some of the responsiveness/it will take longer to build boost if you keep the same turbo. It's a compromise.

5) Start worrying about the transmission much above 300 torque at the wheels. It's a ticking time bomb with no good solution yet. 4th gear is the weak link. Replacement transmissions are cheap as dirt.

6) If you take the engine apart to build it, all the factory fasteners are junk. Replace the torque-to-yield head and main bolts with ARP studs. You will thank me when your heads don't lift. Aftermarket con rods woth anything should come with their own spec'd bolts.

Thank you. The reason I mentioned the block was the COBB BRZ. I got a quote of what they had in theirs. 16k for the whole kit installed, but that's overkill. I just want a decent, reliable turbo and sbd sounds it. I was just trying to play it safe when I do get it. I don't know that I want to replace the turbo or up the boost. I don't plan on it, but I haven't got the kit yet so who knows. Honestly I am happy the way it is most days, and a turbo is partly just to have one and to shut the tards up about power I guess. I just want one haha. I planned on getting an oil cooler, front end crash bar, and guages/boost controller too. Those sound like necessities.

I will look up the other posts just to gain some knowledge.

Thanks for the response!

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I know I'm repeating all that's mentioned above but I feel its worth beating to death,

-Your block is NOT the weakest link.
-your connecting rods ARE the weakest link.

Well.....that escaladed quickly :bonk:

That would only be good for a high boost application, i.e huge PTE turbo, low comp and a stroker kit.

For any internal work, i would say con rods and maybe headwork with studs besides the turbo kit.


Theres lots of tid bits and 'nice' supporting mods while a few being nessesity. Everything from drivable clutches to better tranny fluid for nicer shifting can be found between these pages. Dont underestimate the power of searching.

It's more the amount of data that comes up in a search the sorting through all the bullcrap.
A lot of it starts with "do this" and ends with "never do that. Do this!" and that's usually after 50 pages :(. It gets overwhelming and seems to always start with the common misconceptions. Then add 6 pages of trolling and 5 pages of unrelated banter + hijacks and it's hard to learn anything because 1-1=0. By that I mean one says do this then the next batch says don't do this putting me at point 0.

Thank you for the answer btw lol


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Yes indeed. All the answer material I posted in this thread has been said before, but it's buried in heaps of unrelated bullshit. That's why I felt like helping.

If you spend long enough on the forum, you'll get better at sifting through it. Use google instead of the ft86 search bar and include site:ft86club.com in the google bar. Much better way to search. You will start to see the same group of knowledgeable helpful people pop up over and over. (I'm not one of those people haha...yet...but I'm new.) You'll get better at sifting out the bullshit, and learn which members to actively ignore.

I've got the SBD turbo, self install, stock internals, oil cooler (mine is custom but any of the thermostatic kits work great) and 10w30 full synthetic. My engine is fine. Great, actually. From your list, boost controller is unnecessary, and if you have the OFT plugged in for data logging, the only additional gauge you need is oil pressure as the stock car doesn't have a real oil pressure sender, just a switch. Oil pressure gets low when it's hot, but everybody else has been fine and you don't sound like you're subjecting it to track racing conditions.

The stock actuator controls the boost just fine, and the only people who have blown the engine are the people who can't resist the temptation to reach over and crank up the boost controller. It's an evil temptress, believe me. I don't have one in this car.

Chris at SBD gives some of the best, fastest, most helpful post-purchase support I've ever had from any vendor ever... And I don't hand out compliments lightly.

Thanks! I definitely need to get used to that search method.
Chris was one of the reasons I was sold on that kit.
No track days planned, but if I do it wont be anything serious. It also won't be often.
The majority of my driving is just driving rural roads a little aggressive as long as no one is around (in case something goes wrong I'll only wreck me).

Again, thanks for the reply!


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For a basic engine build. Pistons, rods, bearings, head studs, head gaskets, valve springs/retainers. For a bunch of power, add case studs, sleeves/closed deck conversion, ported heads, cams

A little off topic but i feel like it is important to mention. A good tune is just as important as the engine internals. Also from all the reading i have done, a quality oil cooler is also worth your while.