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flush with stock wheels. with Stud installation.
using H&R trax wheels spacers part #3025560 . these are 15mm and include longer studs. this setup will push your wheels out nicely.
front studs are easy to install but on the back you can only get the longer stud in at a certain position. here is the hub position on the back to get the studs in. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/PICT5244.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/PICT5245.jpg to get them in you will need a tube or 2 big nuts that slide over the stud. use a lug nut and tighten the stud in. use a big socket on the center nut to stup the hub rotating. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/PICT5247.jpg and finished http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/PICT5254.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/PICT5256.jpg. easy 30 min. spacers and studs are around 130 per pair. |
Thanks for posting! I usually use a stack of washers instead of the nuts. Same result, but washers are probably easier to find.
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let me know how it holds up. any issues down the road, etc
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Pics from farther away please, I'd like to see the overall look.
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sorry to bring this back up haha, do you have any side shots or more pics?
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Putting spacers on must play havoc with your suspension geometry, no?
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Are the spacers hub-centric?
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Wait...wth? I thought all fr-s' were disc in back? confused. lol
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[j/k! Don't do this. Really bad things, 4 realzies...] |
NO.
Washers aren't machined to nearly the tolerances required to keep the wheel straight, not to mention you wont have sufficient threads for the nut to hold on to. Using a stack of washers is a great way to watch as a wheel races your car and wins. |
Hence the ;) above...
Actually, even if washer stacks were identical height to a c-hair, and lug studs were long enough, they would still be a very very VERY bad idea for other reasons as well. The stack would allow the wheel to move radially and the lug studs would see a lot of bending load. So, to be sure, I'll add a j/k note above^^^ |
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