stock block max HP and max RELIABLE HP?
 

I tried searching and didn't find anything. If there's already a topic, please let me know. I'm looking to see what the stock block can hold, both all out and reliably. Thanks

Shane

Just because you have Hawai'i in your name, I'll point you to some easily googled threads

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1416315

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=949756

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2037907

Lots of topics around on this- not a lot of data and perspectives on these engines yet to draw any definite conclusions

Maximum reliable hp, at a trackable level? About 380 crank, and 300 tq. Light street use? Depends on how you drive.

IMO even those numbers are not 100% accurate. Really the correct answer is no one knows for sure. Lower boost and a correct tune are keys for longevity. You gotta pay to play. So I would going into expecting to need to rebuild your engine @ some point :)

Those numbers assume a great tuner is involved.

The torque number is 100% known, and the horsepower is an extrapolation of the torque.

Unless you have a lot of money lying around for an aftermarket transmission.

Thanks for the replies everyone. General consensus is roughly 300 whp.. what about stock drive train? IE. Clutch, Trans, diff and axles?

@Koa thanks btw lol you in HI?

Stock clutches seem to be done at around 200lbft. If you're doing FI i'd consider it a necessary supporting mod regardless of power output.

What clutch would you recommend, I was thinking something from SPEC or Clutch Masters, but was unsure as to what style. With that said I am open to other manufactures as well.

Been tracking at 275 whp 210 wtq. Considering going up to 320 whp 230 wtq from now on. Probably will not go beyond that for fear of booming.

ACT clutch with round organic disk is cheap, comes with lightened flywheel, and holds decent amounts of torque. No complaints from mine at 220-230 ft/lbs turque and 300 whp.

ACT is fine for a stiffer clutch, CM is good but expensive.

The stock transmission is a hit or miss. The supra V160/161 is an expensive swap.
The R154 is a more cost effective form of a good trans swap.

The axles are probably the same, most notibly the CV joints would go out first before the axle snaps, right?