Which Forged Rods and Pistons
 

Have been searching the net for forged internals and was wondering what peoples opinions are when it come to rods and pistons for FI.

Thinking of going to a 9:1 piston (on ozzy 98 fuel)

Have listed brands below and would like to hear the good the bad and the ugly (if there is any)

Rods ; 1) Brian Crower I Beams
2) Manly Turbo Tuff
3) CP Carrillo

Pistons 1) JE Forged
2) CP Carrillo Forged (leaning towards these as have heard only good things so far).

Looking at APR head studs and was wondering if it's worth putting wet liners like the "Darton Scion FRS Subaru BRZ MID Sleeves". :iono:

Any first hand experience would be good but please keep it on topic

Pauter not an option for the rods?


I've had CP's in my last 2 built EJ257's, the first one was built loose and used 1L of oil per 1000km, the next bottom end was assembled by a different shop (perfourmance) and it uses no oil.


I had Pauter rods in the first engine and now have Manly's in the current engine. I'd say your power goal/RPM range would be the biggest influence on the rod selection.


Any particular place in mind for the machine work?


If I need to build my FA I'll be going with 10:1 CP's and Pauter rods, probably wouldn't sleeve the block as then I'd be really pushing the power limits and turning the gearset to mush. I'd use JHH for the machine work and assemble myself.

Didn't know about the Pauter rods but will check them out.

Haven't got a place in mind as yet and would be in Perth but will be doing most of the work myself at this stage .

What's the idea of 10:1 compared to 9:1 as would be running about 18 psi and I've been told that with lower comp it is easier to tune and you can put more timing in so more power safely . :iono:
Was going to go 10:1

don't forget you have direct injection available so you can push more boost with higher compression ratio.


18psi from what turbo?


You'll be more likely to hammer your rod bearings than crack a ringland with CP's if you make it detonate.

Generally, low boost on anything over 11:1 CR, mild boost (12-20 psi) on 10-11:1 CR and high boost (26+) on anything lower than 10:1.

how about 9.5:1 ?

That's what I was thinking but Carrillo doesn't do 9.5:1 only 9 and 10:1 :bonk:

You can run a 10:1 DI boosted engine on U.S. regular unleaded (87 AKI, 91 RON).

Don't go too low. I wouldn't go less than 10:1 on a DI engine. That's already a drastic drop in static compression...

you can get custom cps made :)

Id suggest 9.8363051:1 CR. Sounds about perfect.

Cp carillo seem to be the only rods with a sawtooth split between the cap and rod. Probably to reduce chances of spinning a bearing.

I've got arp head studs, pauter rods, acl bearings, JE 10:1 pistons and built heads.
My tuner recommended this setup, and element tuning is running the same setup on their race frs with great results.
Good luck with the build

Thanks for the info and wondering how long have you been running this setup for and have you had any issue at all to date.

I only put about 35 miles on it, before my friend slid the car into a curb. The repairs should be getting finished up this week.
Its not really an issue, but the internals are definitely way louder than factory. My first forged motor and I was told their a little noisy but its pretty damn loud lol.