Another Oil Cooler Mounting Option
 

This isn't really a "DIY" so I figured it should be posted here. I wanted a oil cooler setup that mounted the cooler with the fittings down so that when changing oil it was easy to get all of the oil out of the system. I also did not want it mounted to the lower plastic piece as I have read stories of this ripping off during off track excursions or "farming". Being somewhat new to tracking and realizing bad things can happen I like to minimize damage during and incident.

So below is what I came up with. The basic components are all pretty standard:

Mocal Sandwich Plate
Mocal 13 Row oil cooler
-10AN various fittings and hose

I chose to go with 90 fittings off of the oil cooler to make the setup a little shorter than using the 90 hose ends. And then some 1" square aluminum about 3" long for mounting brackets.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...IMG_2426_0.jpg


Next I used 3/8" x 4" long bolts and fenders washers that attach to some 1/2 thick steel that I cut/drilled/tapped to be used as nuts.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...IMG_2428_0.jpg

The nuts fit just inside the square aluminum so they do not rotate and make for easy install.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...IMG_2429_0.jpg

Now for what may not be to everyones liking, I drilled four 1/2" holes in the crash bar to put the bolts through. IMHO they almost look OEM with the cooler removed and would not be noticed by any service tech as abnormal with a little white touchup paint. One could debate about the holes comprimizing the integrity of the crash bar or causing it to fail in a different manner than designed, but based on all the other holes and some of my own engineering knowledge I highly doubt this.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...IMG_2431_0.jpg

Here is the cooler bolted into place. It is a very sturdy mount and you could actually adjust how far back the cooler sits by making the aluminum tubing longer.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...IMG_2438_0.jpg


And one final pic to show everything hooked up and routed.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...IMG_2437_0.jpg


Well like I said, this is not intended to be a DIY just to provide other option if you have some of the same concerns I did. If anyone would like more details just PM me and I can elaborate.

Now it is time to go get ready for my 2nd track day and I don't have to worry about oil temps any more.:)

So you intend to take off the bumper and unhook one of those AN fittings each time you do an oil change?

You will have difficulty getting all of the air bubbles out of the cooler like that.

You only have to remove the plastic underneath not the entire bumper. A little extra work, but nothing major.

I have had two other cars with similar setups and never had issues with bubbles or leaks for that matter. If you don't have experience working with AN lines as far as proper assembly, tightening torque, etc. stick with an off the shelf kit and an installer of your choice.

The only way that you would know if you had a large bubble would be to take a picture of the cooler when it is hot with an infrared camera.

If an air bubble took up half of the cooler, you wouldnt know it except it would be inefficient because the oil would still run through it.
In fact I dont see how it would be possible to NOT have a huge bubble in it:iono:

True I don't know for a fact there is no bubble, but the volume and pressure of the oil flowing into the cooler should force any air out or at least the vast majority. If this was a much larger cooler it could be an issue. The only real proof I have of this is all of my setups have cooled with similar results of coolers mounted the opposite direction.

It wouldn't...

What is the BTU rating of your selected core?

Based on what I'm seeing, it looks like you have a core that will just barely be enough for a NA application, if it is 100% utilized.

Will your solution be better than nothing? Absolutely. Is it being utilized efficiently? No.

Guessing at flow rate I would say BTU is in the low 20,000 range. As you mentioned just adequate for this car. It is the same size as the Perrin kit.

I respect your opinion as I have read many of your posts and utilized a lot of the information you provide. However I and many others have personal experience with coolers mounted this way working effectlively, so we can just disagree.

The only real way to tell how efficiently this setup is working is to test at the track. Last time at Eagles Canyon my oil temps were reaching 265 and the ambient temps were in the low 80's. Forecast for this Saturday is in the low 90's should be a good test.

Oh you don't even need to be going through canyons fast! Just sit on the highway in 3rd gear. RPM is the primary contributor to oil temps.

Doing this with a stock car will easily get them over 260F.

Took the car to Eagles Canyon for 4 sessions yesterday. Max oil temp was 232° vs 265° last time I was at the same track. Other things worth mentioning: ambient temps where about 10° higher this time and I was able to push the car harder knowing temps where in check. I was short shifting before to keep temps at 265°.

This setup is clearly effective and is working as efficiently as all others of the same size (mainly Perrin).

I've been following this thread, but haven't commented yet.

Congrats on thinking outside of the norm. However, there's a reason for the norm as has been mentioned before about trapping air bubbles. Just keep an eye on the temps though (as you have been) and all should be ok.

But, if I were to provide some comment to give the best of both worlds, why not mount it rotated 90 degrees with the oil flow going in the bottom and out the top hose of the cooler. This would still push the air bubbles out, but yet have a "bottom of the cooler" hose connection to drain from.

You'd need a different cooler I guess, but surely one could be found in the correct shape.

Just an idea.

Cheers,
Chris

This is how the oil cooler (for the rotrex) is mounted on our boosted S2000 :)

I'm still trying to figure the right oil cooler for me...idk if I want air or water though...

Yeah I actually looked for a "sideways" mounted option first, but the ones I could find were 3 times the cost. Even considered mounting a few smaller coolers sideways in series to make the most of the available space, but still address my needs (too many reasons why that was a bad idea). In the end the bubble concern was alleviated two vehicles ago. Granted, all of the vehicles have been less than 3.7 liters and about 350hp. A larger cooler (especially taller) will have more chance of capturing air.

Like you said the most important thing is to monitor your temps and also have an idea of what results you should be getting to tell if your setup is working efficiently.