Good front/rear camber value for my setup?
 

Stock suspension
225/45 RE11A's on a 17x8 RPF1 +45 offset
I'll be tracking the car in the WinMax 86 CUP (mostly Willow courses)

I'm looking to get the SPC LCA and either camber bolts or plates, depending on the answers in this thread.

What would you suggest are good (negative) camber values for F/R?

Will the camber bolts be enough to achieve that value in the front?

-3 front,-2 rear is good starting point

Bill

And just as reference, I believe you can only get a little less than 1.5 degrees with camber bolts. Though if you want more you may want to throw on a good set of lowering springs with the bolts to pick up more camber and get a little bump in performance, which would still be significantly less than camber plates.


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If it helps, I have -1.1 F / -2.0 R with OEM suspension, Whiteline camber bolts and Cusco rear LCAs. You can only get so much camber with the bolts. Still leaps and bounds over OEM alignment (or lack thereof).

Can't replace the stock springs though, I've maxed out my points for my class. However, camber kits are free. You know if it's worth it to get plates instead of bolts, for the $$$ difference?

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IMHO they'd be worth it if you think you can use that extra negative front camber to go faster, and you don't plan on upgrading to coil-overs (or just springs) anytime soon.

Got it. I'm not the right person to answer that question because it's beyond my knowledge level, though I'm sure some of the more experienced guys on here will have an answer for you.

Max out the camber you can get, but you need to do both the front AND the rear, with the front being more important.

Is that the max you can get with the bolts? :(

Yeah, that's the maximum the shop was able to dial in, but YMMV...

Hopefully at some point some company makes something similar to the Com-C mounts... except you know that work

I have SPC LCA's (old version) they are broken and had to be welded in place. I am upgrading to whiteline.

We recommend SPL.