Made me-self an Amp Rack
 

The amp rack is actually held in place by my Cusco strut bar :lol:
It ain't going nowhere :burnrubber:

added a second battery
battery cut off
2 fans
line out converter
Hifonics Brutus 5000.5

POWERING

13w7 at .75 Ohms behind drivers seat
Infinity Kappa's in door speakers at 2 Ohms
2 JL Audio TR650-cxi's at 4 Ohms in my rear seats

I'm interested in seeing this in person

Looks nice.

Thanks a lot guys! Took me a good amount of time and effort to get it the way i wanted it but, I am very pleased with how it functions.
The extra battery REALLY helped with my idle dropping when the bass hits,
now it doesn't flinch when the bass hits

I worry a bit because of the open connectors. Big chance to get a short circuit

I saw your set up.
It is Extremely clean :coolpics: how does it sound?
Any suggestions you have for my amp rack/ system? :cheers:

How does ist sound ... ? Not as good as I aspected ... only got second place on the German Sound Quality Championship with one point behind the first place. Quiet okay for the first year - but I have to improve.
The car can be filled with music with a good stage - concert feeling without anoying the next 3 blocks with your music. But I always have to put down the back seat for best subwoofer.

Improvement to you install? Protect the power connectors against short circuit. Always use cable sleeves espacially for the connectors on the amp
eg http://www.ft86club.com/forums/image.../wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 1600x1009.http://i.ebayimg.com/t/100-Stueck-Ad...HF%7E/$_57.JPG
It seems that you put the raw cable into it. this will break after a while
The the connector of the power cable on the right 90° down, to protect it from being pushed.

The rest is okay. I have spend together with a professional installer about 200 working hours into the car.

By the way ... next step will be switching form
headunit -> DSP -> amp

to

phablet/tablet -> DSP by bluetooth -> amp

iPad mini would be great but to not fit right, plus I cannot use torque. Something like a LG G Pad 8.3 would be great, but no chance to sync my iTunes perfect :mad0259:Also the display is not want I expect. Rooting could be an idea, but my last two tries end up in softbricks

can you explain this more? what causes the wire to break? a good install will have limited wire movement, so after everything is connected, it shouldn't be an issue...

It will always be an issue. All forces lay on the pressed wire. Every hard break, every bump, every touch on the cable end up in this point.
These hose stabilize the wires that are pressed together and make the connection into the cable isolation. There are always some string on the wore taht breaks and while drive the ratteling will make it even worth. This process will take some time and if you work on the installtion, everytime the cable will be damage more while fasten the screws. During my installation I think we fix/unfix every cable about 4 times?

So the pros:
look nicer
cable hold longer times
easier for installation

the cons
will cost ... I payed 0.08 to 0.15€ per piece

I use those on every conector I have ... I made some bad experience in the past which costs me a batterie and an amp. 50qmm coppercable directly connected to ground via the amp housing on an batterie plus caps without any fuse ... no fun!

I completely agree with you about them looking nicer and making it easier to install in the wire housing on the amp. I'v just honestly never noticed these "hose's" on audio installs before until you mentioned them thank you. I will try to search for them on the internet and get some for myself :thumbup:

With the right tools Easy to do.

Normally i press all in the connector where it will be Install. In best Case, the Hardware is in place and only the wiring has to be done. So angles and placement will be right if you press the wire Hose in the connector