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Advice needed on wheel stud issue
Hello everyone, have a dilemma right now and want some educated opinions.
I track the FR-S as often as possible and did an event at the end of October at NJMP. I use dedicated track pads so I (obviously) have to take the wheels off to change them out. I did it no problem (not the first time swapping them) but since I knew I was going to be doing another event in about a month and knowing I wasn't going to be driving the car a lot in the intervening time, I opted to not swap back to stock. Two weeks later I went in to Toyota to get the taillight (condensation) fixed and figured I'd do the 7500 mile service too. Everything went fine (as far as I knew) so fast forward to last weekend, no problems at the track. Today however I decided to swap the track pads back to stock ones. Got the fronts done with no issue but when trying to take off the passenger rear wheel, as I'm loosening one of the lugs, it feels as though I'm tightening it. Using an impact wrench yields no results either. I get confirmation on my theory from two mechanics in the shop I'm using that the lug is cross threaded. So here's the dilemma. I did not take the wheels off since the dealership touched them so I'm 100% sure the mechanic working on it was being lazy with an impact gun and cross threaded it. But I'm sure that the dealer will deny its their fault. I always use a breaker bar/torque wrench when working on the wheels so I'm positive I did not cause the issue. I also just got moved from VA to Camp Lejeune in NC so the dealer that did the work is 5 hrs away. It seems to be an easy job so is it worth it to argue with the dealer and Toyota to admit fault and fix it for free or should I do it myself? Further, I know that I want to go to aftermarket wheels and tires in the near future, so (in the spirit of while I'm there.....) should I change to better studs and get lugs that will fit the aftermarket studs and wheels? Thanks for reading since its a long post but you need the full background to understand the situation. Let me know your questions or clarifications. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk |
I'd just change it out myself if I were you. Sounds like the dealer did it but it's gonna be hard to prove. Even if they would replace it for you it's still 5 hours away.
You don't need different studs for aftermarket wheels unless you're planning on running spacers. |
I had the same issue and I think the dealer messed up mine as well. From what I hear the stock studs are not that strong. Since you are tracking quite often it would make sense to invest in longer and stronger aftermarket studs.
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You might consider asking the local dealer ..... they may make it right ... maybe not .... won't hurt to ask.
humfrz |
just get a new wheel stud and change it yourself, it will be the least stressful route for you to take.
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I hate to hear these stories. The OEM lugs are CRAP. I cross threaded at least 4 studs before I got smart and got new lugs. Since you track a lot, I recommend ARP studs with new lugs... You will never worry about lug nuts agains whether you use impact wrench or not. These things are almost indestructable. Also, a buddy of mine cracked all 5 studs at the track... I didn't believe it until I saw his track video and his front wheel rolled in front of him.
Its cheap insurance if you track your car often. $200 for Mutakei lugs and ARP studs My $0.02 |
He's right!
OEM lugs/studs are crap! |
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