DIY Trailer Wiring
 

Hey guys, this isn't going to be a super detailed DIY but I have been getting a lot of questions about wiring trailer lights. Hopefully this will help clear up a lot of those questions and give people a good start to wiring trailer lights.

To wire trailer lights on an FRS/BRZ you will need to purchase a powered converter like this one: https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-...urt/56146.html
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4368fa8d.jpg

A basic overview of the wiring that needs to be done:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...psc9178067.jpg

The converter uses an external source for power and does not put an extra draw on the tail lights. The power to this converter can be taken from almost any fused power source that is on with the ignition. I decided to use the glove compartment cigarette plug since its easy and I don't use it for anything else. So in that case you will need a universal outlet plug.
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb0aa190c.jpg

Wiring of left tail in progress:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...psafe8e1fd.jpg

Completed wiring on left tail:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps48127dfb.jpg

Wiring on right tail:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps0dc64989.jpg

Mounting location of Curt adapter near left tail:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps08979792.jpg

Semi-completed wiring on left tail showing a better view of the mounting location of the Curt adapter (right)
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps1e10b755.jpg

Power adapter installed in glove box:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps009b4b8e.jpg


I know this DIY is pretty vague so feel free to ask any questions you have.

Bought this same kit from jegs.com. Payed U haul half hour labor (35$) and they did a fantastic job. Your smarter than me figuring it out.

* they connected my power straight to the battery

Subbed.

nice... :)

Bill

Curt Adapter
 

Found this today while looking for wiring for my newly installed Kask Hitch: http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...leid=201322578

Ordering.

Hell yea! That's new. Would have made my life a little easier if they had this a year ago lol

Ya...now that my wires are cut and sliced...they release a PnP kit.

Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk

FWIW - I used the same harness but just ran power from the tail light. I actually just spliced and wrapped with electrical tape. I haven't had any issues. There isn't a ton of slack in the OEM wiring, so just take your time.

Where did you guys run the wiring to the exterior, on most vehicles with trailer hitches the wiring sticks out right by the hitch. I've got the plug and play everything just need to know where to pop it out?

Through a rubber plug under the spare. Then between the body and exhaust heat shield.

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Bumping an old thread. Looking to build an autocross trailer for next year, so wiring is a concern of mine. My question:

I see that all of these kits use a "powered connector" so that the added draw from the trailer doesn't overstrain the existing wiring. However, I've converted my vehicle to 100% LEDs, and I intend to replace all the trailer bulbs with LEDs as well. I'm not an electrical engineer, but I'm wondering if I still need to bother with the powered adapter, since LEDs use a fraction of the power of a normal bulb. Even with the added length of wire, which I'm sure adds resistance, I'm wondering if it's necessary. I don't want to have to run wires if they aren't necessary - especially all the way to the front of the car.

Don't be lazy and risk an electrical fire. It took me all of 15 minutes to run the wire. Out interiors are cheap pop together plastic. There is literally one 10MM bolt in the rear seat, everything else comes out without using a single tool. You can't beat plug & play for $45. I didn't have to cut anything, plus I run them in front of my Diode Dynamics turn-as-tail mods, so there is no added load on the circuit.
https://www.etrailer.com/t1-2015_Subaru_BRZ.htm
https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...6212_4_500.jpg

It has nothing to do with being lazy, and everything to do with me being OCD and not wanting to run wires across the car for no reason. I'm just hoping someone might know for a fact whether it's the bulbs or the wiring that causes the added strain, because I'm fairly confident that a few extra LEDs on their own won't really do much to the load.