Guys running EcuTek boost control
 

Once you unplug the CPC control what do you do about the CPC valve? Does it need to be purged occasionally? The stock CPC map has it open almost anytime you are at idle or cruise.

Aaron

I have not had any issues with not purging it in my testing

I know it's been done for ages on subaru and while there's no issue, my cars does weird things with the evap system

I'm not convinced the car likes it, really

Something buzzes electrically in the tank, and tank pressures are always high.

That being said, would you still go ecutek controlled boost (ebcs to evap) if you were to do it all over again? Or a standalone EBC?

Given the non boosted car has enough issues with heat, when we all boost, we all take on more heat, simple, we assume more of everything, use fuel faster heat fuel faster radiator heats faster tranny heats faster, it's all cumulative. Hot gas has its own management needs.

Why do you think I spent more time testing than tracking? Heat. Back to your question.

Standalone ebc has its pros and cons too, the clean way to tune thru ecutek has its merits but with everything there is trade off, you still need a tuning solution, so if you have it why not use it right? Sure if you need to know my answer, I would not go the ecutek ebcs route on our second car. That evap and emissions stuff is there for a reason, not just EPA compliance, while the are fall backs and safety stuff behind it all to fall back on, boosting something that was never boosted is crazy enough without disabling evap lines. Mind you, the boost control you can achieve if you're willing to loom past evap stuff is every bit as controllable and stable as a standalone. After the viscon-b-que I am looking at all my ever stuff a little more seriously, and inclined to not mess with it, as advice if that's what is being asked. At the end of the day, as a gear head we do things for power, its a call you have to make, if you're gonna do it, if you wanna do it all the time etc. it's a physical connection of a harness, but if you wanted to get creative and have the best of both worlds, the way my map works is in map 1 its factory, so if I reconnect my purge valve, it works oe. Once I connect that line to ebcs pro its a boost controller. So see, it's not all bad.

I would for sure consider ecutek plus standalone, next time. I am sold on boosting the platform for daily drive stuff, but am not yet convinced on the boost vs heat to power to track I think tracking 9psi is a handful of heat, I run more, but have yet to ever feel like my build is done or safe from heat, and that is a fact. So ebcs for daily drive , sure, al day long. Ebcs for track, sure if you can manage the heat

Is your gas cap vented or sealed?

Shrug, my tuner is certain it's only there for emissions. I get a bit of air discharge when the tank is empty & I remove the cap but no more than any of my older cars.

The entire reason for the evaporative emissions control is to keep the vapor from building in the tank and releasing into the atmosphere when you remove the cap.

I'm still not convinced removing the ability to do that is a good thing, but it shouldn't hurt performance.

Factory

A vented gas cap, if you can find one, might prevent the tank from pressuring. That or just disconnect the vacuum line from the top of the tank. I know your big on safey, and probably wouldn't want those vapours venting near the heat of the engine bay. Originally cars just ran vented gas caps to prevent presurizing the tank when the temperature started going up no reason for it to not work not, other then emissions.

The evaporative emissions system is there to prevent un burnt gasoline vapours from escaping into the atmostphere. Unburt vapours are a lot more harmful to the environment then burt gasses. I would certainly recommend venting the vapours somewhere. If you leave it sealed your pump is going to have to work a lot harder if you're on a long drive and the tank starts going into a vacuum.

Calum, while I have no data to prove it, but it affect tank pressure in a way that truly scares me

could always go the vented cap route. but then you run into not having enough pressure in the tank and the pump cavitating and you go lean. if you dont vent it then the pump will just work its ass off like @Calum said.

Got to be a way to keep the CC intact and still run the ebcs

The pump is designed to work at atmospheric pressure. Having pressure in the gas tank on the track is not a good idea.

The easiest and cheapest way is to drill a hole in the cap. Ghetto as hell though.