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-   Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=27)
-   -   10 Series add a sub (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43743)

Dsmith1992 08-07-2013 10:27 PM

10 Series add a sub
 
has anyone figured out a way to add an amp and a subwoofer to a 10 series frs yet, as the 6.1" touch screen bespoke does not come with rca outputs, like the regular bespoke audio system. Do i need to find a harness or what are my options here without having to buy a new headunit.

Luis_GT 08-07-2013 10:40 PM

Have you looked at the OEM Audio +, it's essentially plug and play...

Personally after setting the HU audio DSP to Feel... it has quite a punchy setup... despite the lack of subwoofer.

Dsmith1992 08-07-2013 10:47 PM

ya i have looked at the OEM Audio+

not really liking the 1200 price tag, i had a 12" kicker L7 that would actually fit quite perfectly, just needed the rca's to hook it up

thill 08-07-2013 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsmith1992 (Post 1126441)
has anyone figured out a way to add an amp and a subwoofer to a 10 series frs yet, as the 6.1" touch screen bespoke does not come with rca outputs, like the regular bespoke audio system. Do i need to find a harness or what are my options here without having to buy a new headunit.

You should have no problem. Folks usually tap into the rear speakers with a mono amp. I just removed my old amp and added a five channel Alpine which has speaker level inputs. Then you have an amp to either power the stock door and front speakers, or an upgrade path for new speakers.

mikeTee 08-07-2013 10:56 PM

Maybe the "Kicker" subwoofer that they're offering for the BRZ? Granted I've been reading some seriously mixed reviews on it, but the harnesses might match up.

Luis_GT 08-07-2013 10:59 PM

Only other thing I can think off is to add a speaker level to RCA adapter, but you'd have to find the speaker lever wires with a wiring diagram...

Or try this

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1086444

Dsmith1992 08-07-2013 11:02 PM

ig i will look into saving some money and get a OEM audio 400+ system

SportInjected 08-07-2013 11:16 PM

Use a line output converter (LOC), tap either the front or rear speakers from the headunit harness, then plug in the RCA cables into the LOC.

Use a wiring diagram to figure out which wires go to which speakers, or do trial and error with a AA battery (touch one wire to + and one to -, until you hear static noise coming from a speaker).

TRD-X 08-08-2013 05:59 PM

OEM Audio+ is awesome I've had two of their systems and will be buying it for my FR-S also.:drool:

:bow::bow::bow:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...26668899_n.jpg

M_Dubbs 08-08-2013 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SportInjected (Post 1126547)
Use a line output converter (LOC), tap either the front or rear speakers from the headunit harness, then plug in the RCA cables into the LOC.

Use a wiring diagram to figure out which wires go to which speakers, or do trial and error with a AA battery (touch one wire to + and one to -, until you hear static noise coming from a speaker).

Gonna be "that guy" here but my advice is to not go touching batteries to wires without properly testing them first. The problem with trial and error is that most of the time in a vehicle, speaker wires are twisted pairs of wire. The only other wires that are commonly twisted pairs are data and airbag wires. Do yourself a favor, and if there is a Harbor Freight near you, pick up one of their cheap digital multimeters (or one from any other place that sells tools), set it to the ohms setting, and with the aid of a wiring diagram, find the wires in a place that makes sense for them to be running (I would say behind the radio or in the kick panels in the harness going into the door would be great places to look. Once you find the suspected pair, strip a small part of them (not at the same time) and test the oh reading with the meter leads on both wires. If it is roughly in the neighborhood of 4 ohms, You have found your speaker wire. You can try a AA battery at this point. I'm not sure if your FRS has the same amp in the back that the BRZ limiteds do (those are the only ones I've worked on) but that is a great place to grab signal and remote turn-on. If you plan to ever replace the factory head unit, I strongly recommend connecting your ine-out converter behind the radio. This will save you the trouble of re-running cables once you get a radio with sub controls, if you ever do.

Sorry, that was long winded. I've just seen a lot of people make costly mistakes due to partial, but well-meaning advice. These cars are cake to work with so just use your resources, take your time, and have fun!

M_Dubbs 08-09-2013 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsmith1992 (Post 1126441)
has anyone figured out a way to add an amp and a subwoofer to a 10 series frs yet, as the 6.1" touch screen bespoke does not come with rca outputs, like the regular bespoke audio system. Do i need to find a harness or what are my options here without having to buy a new headunit.

Oh dang, you're in CO. are you on the Colorado FRS BRZ owner club? my brother is. PM me and I might be able to help you further...

SportInjected 08-09-2013 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M_Dubbs (Post 1129195)
Gonna be "that guy" here but my advice is to not go touching batteries to wires without properly testing them first. The problem with trial and error is that most of the time in a vehicle, speaker wires are twisted pairs of wire. The only other wires that are commonly twisted pairs are data and airbag wires. Do yourself a favor, and if there is a Harbor Freight near you, pick up one of their cheap digital multimeters (or one from any other place that sells tools), set it to the ohms setting, and with the aid of a wiring diagram, find the wires in a place that makes sense for them to be running (I would say behind the radio or in the kick panels in the harness going into the door would be great places to look. Once you find the suspected pair, strip a small part of them (not at the same time) and test the oh reading with the meter leads on both wires. If it is roughly in the neighborhood of 4 ohms, You have found your speaker wire. You can try a AA battery at this point. I'm not sure if your FRS has the same amp in the back that the BRZ limiteds do (those are the only ones I've worked on) but that is a great place to grab signal and remote turn-on. If you plan to ever replace the factory head unit, I strongly recommend connecting your ine-out converter behind the radio. This will save you the trouble of re-running cables once you get a radio with sub controls, if you ever do.

Sorry, that was long winded. I've just seen a lot of people make costly mistakes due to partial, but well-meaning advice. These cars are cake to work with so just use your resources, take your time, and have fun!

Great post! I knew I would get some heat for suggesting one of those ghetto methods haha personally, I always use a multimeter to check the actual resistance, but some people like to find the easy/free way out, so I figure I'll provide them with that option.

azian_advanced 08-15-2013 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dsmith1992 (Post 1126441)
has anyone figured out a way to add an amp and a subwoofer to a 10 series frs yet, as the 6.1" touch screen bespoke does not come with rca outputs, like the regular bespoke audio system. Do i need to find a harness or what are my options here without having to buy a new headunit.

i'm willing to trade my stock 10-series stereo for your 6.1" touch screen.
(canadian-spec stereo comes with rear subwoofer pre-outs)

:drool:

canadian-spec 10-series headunits are the same as the stock FR-S stereo without the touchscreen.

Dsmith1992 08-15-2013 08:26 PM

im goin to keep the 6.1 touch screen,


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