Anyone tried hydro dipping before?
 

has anyone done anything with hyrdo dipping before or had any parts dipped? how well does it hold up?

here is video for those of you who dont know what it is

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIPDi35ByW8"]Hydrographics - Carbon Fiber - Fastlane - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADq96RGRf00"]Hydrographics-Water.Transfer.Printing | HG Arts (www.hgarts.com) - YouTube[/ame]

Interesting. Never seen anything like it. I will be experimenting with other coatings soon.

i want to try it out

I've had parts done for customer builds and they hold up pretty well. Some things look cool and some stuff looks pretty cheesy but a unique process for sure.

someone did a DIY awhile back with interior pieces...

i looked around didnt see aything

how well does it hold up to heat?

found it for you

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8lrrchH5A4"]Car Noob Ep. 3 - Interior removal & Carbon Fiber-ization - YouTube[/ame]

The only thing I don't like about that video, or I guess the process, is that the "carbon fibre" pattern doesn't line up at the centre of the splitter because they did the first half and then the second half separately. It would be much better if they just had a huge piece of the patter in the water and submerged the entire splitter so the pattern would be continuous across the whole part.

Never seen this before. Looks cool, especially the activator making the carbon sheet turn to liquid. Thanks @Frs300 and @GT 86 Brah for sharing.

I used to do this for a body shop I worked at. It will hold up long if done properly. We've done gun stocks in camo, car parts in carbon, most of our business for the hydro dip was for other things. Xbox cases, controller cases, phone cases, etc....

They held up good.. We did some wheel hoops and also some centers and no problems with either even with brake dust covering the parts.

I've done a few pieces in multicam. Its a pain in the ass. You have to paint the base coat in the correct color, (most rattlecans dont work) wait for it to dry, get the water temperature just right, lay the sheet in right, add the right amount of activator and get the sheet covered evenly and then dip the part that also has to be at the correct temperature. The correct temp range is like 95 to 100 degrees. You then have to clear coat the piece if you want any durability. I recommend having it done or seeing if the pattern comes in vinyl.

did you see at 4:52/4:53 that the dead center of the camaro lip didnt look that great? the taped middle doesnt look flush... hmmm cool concept tho