Feasible light weighting.
 

I've come to the conclusion that at this point I do not want to force induce my BRZ... But I still want to increase its performance. I was looking for some assistance in determining the best method for light weighting that's not going to turn her into a NVH nightmare.

I was thinking along the lines of:
Rotational:
Perrin (or other) pulley, -3lbs~
Light weight flywheel, 4-5lbs~
Clutch 300-400tq 4-5lbs~
Carbon fiber drive shaft from RSD 8lbs~
Weds sport tc105n 17x8.5 (if I can find them) -5lbs~ each

Static:
Siebon carbon fiber:
Roof (-?lbs)
Hood (-0.2lbs)
Front fenders (-?lbs)
Trunk (-5lbs)
OEM wing (-?lbs)

Single pipe exhaust(saw one but don't know who made it)
Front control arm braces -3.5lbs


If you can add in any of the weight differences I'm missing or can think of some other good ways to drop weight that's feasible for a daily driver, please give your 2 cents.

Thank you for your help.

skip the siebon stuff, unless you have the money for big dollar dry carbon. The wet carbon actually weighs more than OEM pieces in some cases.

light weight battery

Spare tire and tool kit
trunk mat if you have one
battery

I would skip all the carbon fiber ambition in favor of the above mentioned. You'll save more just with the battery than with every panel in carbon fiber.

Beatrush front and rear beam braces.
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Beat...ont-Beam-Brace

This:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13378

I did an 11lb Braille battery and deleted the trunk junk. Saved roughly 20lbs off the mid-front and about twice that in the rear. Could save a good chunk more by chucking the back seat and draining out some of the washer fluid in the nose of the car but as-is it feels just a little bit sharper than before with zero livability impact so I'm happy.

Wish I had done lighter-than-stock 17 inch wheels & tires instead of going for 18inch Ultraleggeras. Although they weigh about the same as the stock 17s including rubber (net), IMO you can really feel the difference of lighter & heavier wheel weight when turning in and accelerating.

Beyond wheels/tires, battery, and trunk junk delete you're getting into lower ROI, high $$$ and high NVH territory IMO. The stock seats are so nice they'd be a shame to chuck out. Maybe a lighter exhaust would be worthwhile depending on price, amd the sound is nice but you did say 'performance'. :)

Im contemplating tossing mine because I need the head room. Im 6'4" and cannot wear a helmet without taking out the roof lining.

the car is pretty light as it is, to make it fast you jut have to focus on suspension and the best mod of all time, driver mod.

power adding wont make as huge of a difference as suspension on this car IMO.

nothing will make you faster than seat time and knowledge. period.

The battery I have for my Miata that I use for autocrossing weighs 1.5 lbs. That's 28 lbs of weight reduction vs the stock BRZ battery. The junk in the trunk is worth another 31 lbs. My 17x7 Kosei K1 TS wheels are 6 lbs lighter per corner than stock, for another 24 lbs of weight reduction. The Nameless muffler delete I put on was 23 lbs lighter than the stock muffler.

A 1.5lb battery? I want!

This. Li-Iron (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery can save you an easy 25 pounds for fairly short money (not Li-Ion). In the front of the car up high. I wouldn't waste my time with Braille and the likes. Old tech and not that much cheaper considering they are 3x the weight.

Headers and exhaust might save you on weight too depending on your choice. I plan to make my own rear seat deletes with some plastic pins and fabric, should save another 20 lbs including all the seat belt hardware back there.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FIUJ0S/"]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FIUJ0S/[/ame]

How many cranking amps?


Thanks

Simmons