GR86 - Throttle Body Cable Tore - Check Engine Code P2101
 

Got a check engine code. Was trying to install the oil pressure thing for a gauge and I made a big mistake.

Ended up tearing the cable (slightly) that goes into the throttle body. It looks to be single cable, not part of the whole cable diagram. Not sure, and need helping figuring it out. Attached the check engine code.
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likely need to contact a junk yard and get the connector with 12" of wiring and re-splice it in with some heat shrink butt splices.

Might just put the original oil galley plug and take it to the dealer at that point.


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If you (I know it's in an uncomfortable spot) remove the intake inlet, temporarily replace the galley plug, and maybe move the ac compressor to the right you could proceed to de-pin the wire from the connector so you can repair it and then put it all back together.
The thought is that you'll have much more slack to make the repair to the single wire if it's not IN the connector.

Did it get damaged during the installation of the sensor?
Or did the wire rub against the sensor over time with vibration?

During the installation. I made a mistake and I think I kinked one or two wires.

Big time rookie mistake :(


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Confirm that the car has a CEL related to a permanent circuit malfunction and not a temporary malfunction. Clear the CEL and try to see if the code returns or if it does not return. If the code clears then return to the car and wiggle the wires with the car running to determine if the connect is stable or unstable. If the CEL does not return then you are okay. If it returns or if the CEL does not clear then move to the next step.

Confirm that the wire is damaged or loose. Exam the exterior for loose and severed wires. Remove the connector, and look inside the connector and see if the terminals are still in place or if they have been pulled back. If they has been pulled back then push the terminals/wires back in position. Give them a tug to see if they stay or if they are loose in the connector. If they are loose then you will likely need to repair or replace something in the connector or the connector itself. This isn't really that hard.

Every connector should have a clip or retention lock. These are either on the top/bottom of the connector that needs to lift up or hinge up, or there is a clip that needs to lift up on the inside of the connector. When you release the lock, the connector should separate and the wire terminals should freely slide out. You will likely see a terminal that is damaged or a wire that pulled free from the terminal. Your only option for a quick fix is that the hook or retainer tab on the terminal got recessed down into the terminal. If that is the case then use a small pick or screwdriver to lift the retainer tab up. Then slide the terminals back into the connector and lock the connecter and check for movement to see if the wire is still loose.

If a quick fix can't happen then purchase a replacement connector. If you have the space (harness length) and a crimping tool then you can just cut the wires at the end of the terminals, crimp new terminals and lock them into the new connector for an OEM look, but if you lack the harness length, tools to crimp terminals or skillset then you can just buy the pigtail and butt connectors.

Connector, connector with terminals, or as a pigtail, or pigtail with crimp connectors (4 options from the drop down menu)
https://iwireusa.com/products/electr...40734175559833

The other option if you lack the slack/length in the OEM harness to safely reach the plug without putting the harness in tension is to use an extension harness like the one below. Buy just the connector and terminals from above. You will then cut off the damaged connector, apply the new terminals and connector to the end of your OEM harness. Like I said, if you lack the length in the OEM harness, or if it is under too much tension, then you can buy the extension harness below and just plug it into your new connector and TB plug. Personally, if I could avoid a ball of six butt connectors tying two harnesses together then I would do that. If you go that route, I would suggest staggering the length of the wires, so you don't just have six butt connectors all terminating at the end of the harness in the same spot that becomes an inch size ball when you heat shrink them up. Just a suggestion.

Extension harness
https://iwireusa.com/products/dbw-th...body-extension

They are just going to replace the engine harness. I wouldn't doubt close to 1k in parts and labor.

yep, or $15 for a junk yard to clip the plug off, and $5 in heat shrink crimps...

I mean if the warranty covers it. Then yolo


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That's a pretty shitty thing to do. You fucked up. At least be a big boy and take responsibility for it.

You breaking the harness while messing around under the hood isn't going to be covered.