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Header Stud Installation Questions
I need to replace one of the studs in the head that the header is fastened to. Old one came out seized to the nut, and I think the threads in the head are fine. Hoping to get the forum's wisdom on this.
Question 1: antiseize? Question 2: torque? Question 3: Procedure is remove header, double up nuts on the stud going in, torque it down using nuts, remove nuts, install header right? Edit: make that 2 studs... |
I don't have answers for you but surely there are instructions online for studs. Although possibly for a different car. Should be pretty standard industry wide
Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk |
Ok, here's what I did
1. No 2. Yes... 13 ftlb or 156 inlb 3. Yes For reference, the issue is I got locking nuts and though they went on ok, coming off some of them were ripping bits of thread off and getting stuck. Avoid oblong style steel lock nuts for headers. I'm just using new OEM nuts now. |
I've reused (GASP!) my oem nuts 3 times. Never any problem. IMHO locking nuts are not needed.
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Same. Reused oem non-locking header nuts 4 times.
I put a small dot of antiseize, though I don't live in a rustprone area. Just a precautionary measure based on how often the overpipe hardware tends to snap. As for stud removal/installation, double nut method. I torque studs on, but the spec is quite low (for example, the transmission stud torque is 7 ft-lb). So the concern is more about avoiding stripping the aluminum block over the stud falling out |
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