Endlink making contact with lower control arm
 

SO, I have had AST 5100 suspension since November of 2022, and because my end links were too long (stock), I was running without end links for a while. About a month ago I was able to put my Whiteline end links on, which was purchased from the guy who had the AST suspension. He had no problems with it at all and hadn't touched either since taking them off of his car, but when I put them on they are clunking really bad, and are making contact with the lower control arm (when I was finally able to take a look at them). I know this because the paint is clearly removed on the control arm. I am also running TRD sways (USDM red ones). Now, as for a solution, do they have to be shorter or longer because it is a change in sway bar height, or is there something I am missing. Any help helps. Thanks!

Pictures would help. Some sway bar and strut combos need shorter endlinks and some need longer. Try to get a picture from inside the wheel well with the car on the ground and steering straight (might not be possible). Also, a picture of the control arm where it's hitting.

When does it clunk? Did you adjust the endlinks to remove preload at all? Is it hitting on both sides or just one?

Will grab a few photos when I have some time (been a bit busy with school). As for when does it clunk; it clunks when turning and when hitting bumps (Michigan roads, so a lot of bumps). With turning, it varies when it clunks, as sometimes it get close to lock to lock without clunking, other times 45º makes it clunk, but it clunks less when moving in terms of turning. Also, I am not 100% sure it is making contact on both sides, but it seems to sound like it is coming from both sides. As mentioned, the end links/suspension were not touched at all between being removed from the previous owners car and my car, and the steering was straight when they were installed, so sway bars should not have been loaded.

I had a similar problem with the WL front end links and a WL front sway.
You'll want these (https://www.splparts.com/products/fr...t-version.html) to solve your problem.

Yeah, my guess is you will want to go shorter to get the ends of the bar above the control arm. Just not too short because then you will start hitting the body. You might be able to get away with shortening the endlinks you have through adjustment, or you may need to get shorter endlinks.

If you have a different bar than the seller, then what worked for his car may not work for yours. Clearance is tight in the wheel well, a millimeter or two can make the difference.

Actual contact between the end link and control arm? I have heard they have had issues with the nuts coming loose and causing clunking, but have notheard of actual contact, which I would think is the main issue.

Almost all aftermarket endlinks have this issue. I always recommended double nutting them. I blocked my car up and measured strut to swaybar with no end link attached and ordered one from WL that fit. The standard one was too long on my car with T2's.

This is what you need....thinest, strongest adjustable endlinks for the 86 chassis
https://www.hotchkis.net/product/hot...13-subaru-brz/

No, the excessively long end link puts the sway bar in a position where the control arm and sway come into contact. The SPL part is shorter, which solved this problem for me.

I had the same issue with stock end-links. As an additional option, the Racerx endlinks worked well length-wise with RCE T2 struts.

Hey guys what is the neutral position for the OE front swaybar since it as a curve at the end? Is the imaginary "A" line suppose to be parallel to the ground or is the the "B" line suppose to be parallel to the ground. Rear sway bar doesn't have the bend so its easy to asses the neutral position

Also does the above recommendations for SPL / Hotchkis front end links work with a 1" lowered Tein FlexZ and OE sway bar as well?

A is parallel-ish, bar bends over steering rod. It is currently approximately 180 degrees out from where it should be in your picture.