Oil Getting Hot on Track
 

Hey all,

I took my car to its first track day at BIR earlier this week and had issues keeping my oil temps in check. I already have a fbm oil cooler and radiator (full mods list here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140753)
I was wondering what the next steps are that I could take for better oil cooling?

Ambient temp was about 80F, oil temps would rise up to about 250-260F on hot laps before I would slow down and let things cool off. I could only do about 2 hot laps before things got too hot. I also had installed an oil pressure gauge and was seeing like 30psi at redline when hot. When the oil cooled down back to around 210F I would see like 65psi at redline. I was using Castrol Edge 5w-40. Coolant temps remained in check the entire time.

The cooler sits right behind the passenger fog light and just doesnt see much air movement. The intercooler piping runs like right in front of it too so ducting from the main vent doesnt seem like a possible option. So the options I'm considering are: removing the fog light, wiring a fan to the cooler, getting a hood vent (thinking driveway labs), or going with the JR dual rad/oil cooler so it picks up air from the front.

What would you suggest?



Not my car but this is where the cooler sits
https://i.imgur.com/RgBSWMR.jpg

FWIW my oil temp goes up to ~272F indicated on the factory gauge and holds there, every track session, whatever the ambient temp... Stock engine, no cooler.

If 30psi hot pressure at rpm has you worried, you might go to an even thicker oil for track use. Was gonna mention KillerB pickup tube but you already have that!

It may seem ghetto, but have you contemplated either swiss-cheesing your fog light bezel, dremeling the plastic out to give airflow, or finding bezels that have airflow pockets? I think aside changing you oil to only mildly mitigate your temps, you need to open air up into that little space.

Should it worry me? What i've read its 10psi/1k rpm and people on here seem to think below 60psi at redline is concerning. I could go to a thicker oil...but I think if I could bring my temps down I'd be ok on my pressures

I have thought about it, and actually at the track day I tried removing the bezels. There are a few small holes behind them to let in some, although small, amounts of air. Didnt help much if it all.

I didnt have any tools with so I couldnt take the fog light itself out, seems like that would open up a nice hole to the cooler. But I'd rater just remove the foglight so I dont have cut any of the factory pieces

Strange, I am NA but I have seen 240-260F with oil cooler on a hot day, my oil pressure would still be 45-50psi at redline on 0-20.

You could cut out the flat parts of the fog light bezel to make it less noticeable.

Edit: just saw your note about not wanting to cut. removing the fog light is the next best thing.

2nd Edit: Is there enough room with the IC to make some sort of scoop that directs air from the grill to the side?

https://i.imgur.com/xqQBtrT.jpg

Next track day I will try upping to a 10w-60. I'm not seeing pressures that low at normal operating temp, just once the temps get hot.

I will try removing my foglight and see if that helps get more air to the cooler. Is a hood vent necessary though? I know these engine bays are pretty sealed up and my mindset is what good does more air in do if it has no where to go

Where are you measuring pressure from? I'm grabbing it from the galley port on top of the block.

I had 0w-20 in before the track and at normal operating temp (190-200F) I would only see like 50psi at redline. Hence why I upped to 5w-40

From the front grill I dont really see a way to direct the air over to the cooler with the IC piping in the way. I might be able to make a duct from the fog light hole to the cooler though

OEM pressure sender location on the front of the timing cover. I think I am getting some cavitation at that area so I notice odd fluctuations at high RPM, but I believe it is fairly accurate.

Should 30psi worry you, I don't know! But I *think* that 30psi should be sufficient to keep the bearings supplied with oil, and local hydrodynamic wedge should provide required film strength if you use an oil with good high-temp/high-shear characteristics.

As I think about it, if cavitation at high rpm is the issue, then going to a thicker oil might not help, might make it worse... Might stick with 5w40 or go 10w40. Or go 30 weight!

FWIW I run 5w30 synth at 272F. Dunno what my oil pressure is!

Alright yeah that would make sense. I plan on switching to a 5w-30 for the street, maybe I'll do some spirited driving and see if I get any better pressures

I like the idea of vents in the wheel well. That combined with opening the fog light hole would give the air a direct in-out path.

My headers and downpipe are ceramic coated. My idea with the hood vent is it may not pull air through the oil cooler itself, but sitting right above the turbo I feel it would decrease the overall temp under the hood. Therefore lowering the oil temp