camber Confusion
 

If I use both upper and lower camber bolts, does that give me 3 degrees neg?/
Thanks

Most people don't get to about -2.5*. The holes in the strut are 2 different sizes, so you can play with which one goes where to try to maximize negative camber.
See here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70035

If the upper strut hole is slotted you might be able to get it

-2 is about it. The camber bolts can slip out of alignment. Get camber plates

[emoji2357] never mind me. Posted this in the wrong thread. How? I don't know.

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No

See previous admission of incompetence

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I can't be certain with this platform but I ran 2 sets of SPC camber bolts on my 8th gen civic SI, they never slipped. This is with track use, winter driven with lots of raid salt, and long 10 hours road trips with about 30k miles of use over 4 years. Are bolts that prone to slippage on this platform? I am not a fan of camber plates because the spherical bearing on the upper plates always wears prematurely, especially for a car that sees winter abuse. And there are also reported case of upper camber plates slipping (perhaps brand specific?).

no, they arent. but they can. just check them on occasion and its fine.

unless you run an eccentric bolt in a slotted strut hole, then slipping is more likely.

Get both. Camber at the hub is better than camber at the strut top.

I'll have to disagree with that. Specifically for the front setup with mac struts. More camber created at the top hat will yield better dynamic camber while cornering.

I'm far from a suspension expert, but from my understanding the main issue with camber plates is that they change the overall geometry of the front end, affecting not only the camber but also SAI, roll center, etc. vs. camber bolts (or other hub based adjustments) which almost exclusively change camber alone.

I'd wager that for a casual driver, even casual tracker, the difference in reality would be fairly minimal - just dial in the amount of camber that results in even wear/temperature across the width of the tread for your driving style and roads/tracks you drive on.

If you're really serious about tracking, suspension tuning would be a whole lot more complicated anyway, and each way to change it would result in side effects that would need to be handled somewhere else - i.e. dial in the suspension with whatever tools you have so that the overall effect is what you need, regardless of the intermediate steps and their impact.

I have seen posts that say the opposite. I am sure the difference is negligible for most people.