Help preparing for Forced Induction
 

Hi all,

Just looking for some collective advice for preparation in going with turbocharged forced induction. Have already installed MCA Purple coilovers to fit wider rims and tyres on the car for more grip with the additional power.

What components of the exhaust are necessary to have prior to FI for the best gains? (OP/FP/Catback?)

What are the preferred oil cooling kit brands?

As i plan to run E85 Flex Fuel, what size injectors should i be looking to install?

Is a new fuel pump absolutely necessary?

I am wanting to collect as many of these items as possible prior to tuning the car with the turbo installed, as dyno tunes aren't cheap.

Any constructive advice would be great, Cheers.

You should be communicating your goals with your tuner. When I was going to go FI the first thing I did was contact a known local tuner and ask questions.

See red.

What is this for? DD, track, mix? What are your power expectations/goals?

The best gains, aka the most power, will be straight piping the exhaust system with a catless header.

My preference is the Jackson Racing radiator/oil cooler combo. Plenty of good oil coolers. Some have thermostatic plates or have other features for draining oil or whatever.

ID 1050s are best. 770s are enough for most who don't have built motors, and a pump isn't necessary. I am on E85 @ 12psi with 770s. I got a pump just for insurance.

You will need a clutch upgrade.

See above

You're looking to buy all those parts yet you're concerned about the price of the tune?

I think youre misunderstanding what he means. Dyno tunes are expensive. And everytime you get a new turbo part ie. BOV, bigger turbo, injectors, you would need a new dyno tune(since he trying to get the most gains).

Concerned about the price of the tune because he wants to do it once, so yea if youre thinking he’s gonna tune multiple times, uhh dang thats some cash i guess.

^good point

^^ this. What's the point of tuning every time i get a new part. Would rather do it all at once.

What system you using?

Power goals?

Internet power points?

Street only?

Track only?

Street and track?

Do you have a budget for spare or upgraded gearbox if your going to "send it"?

Same for stock engine?

My 2017 86 made 270hpatw, AVO, 2.5" overpipe, stock decatted front pipe, stock cat back, stock airfilter, oil temps were fine with only a Forester heat exchanger.

Clutch didn't slip either.

What you use the car for will determine the additional required parts or upgrades.

Talk to the guy who is going to tune the car, and by that I mean on a dyno, with a tuner who is actually good.

Not all tuners are good, they all say they are though.

Don't skimp out on the tuning, this is the most part of the build, both for power and, more importantly, reliability.

Don't look for a big number, look for a tuner who will get the best out of your car with a safe and reliable tune.

Enjoy

Yup, if youre dyno tuning all the more, they'll be more expensive since you'll need to schedule an appointment for time for the dyno and all that. I chose a E-tune with a well-known tuner. What really matter is the tuner is good, a dyno will always help with tuning, but if your tuner is actually good, shouldn't be the end of the world.

Prior to supercharging, I did what you're doing and got wide rear wheels and stiffer coils.

I opted for E85, if you want to go that route too you will need a new fuel pump and injectors. Injector size really depends on what turbo/SC kit you're running.

I'm not sure what regulations are like where you are, but catless headers will give you a noticable power (and noise) increase, if that's not an option a hi flow cat will help too but they aren't cheap. After a lot of research I found that catbacks don't really do a lot for the money, I just got an axleback for the sound and weight saving.

Tuning wise I got an Ecutek E tune through FT86. You send your tuner a full list of parts you're installing, then he'll give you a starting tune so you can send him logs and he'll tweak it until it's right.

E tunes are decent, but the advantage in the dyno tuning is real time safety. If something wasn't working right, the tuner could notice right away. "Oh stop, it shouldn't be hesitating here" or "whoa hold up that afr is way lean" isn't possible when they just send a basemap and say "send it and hopefully you installed everything perfectly"