Bent OEM Rear Endlink
 

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9c297955_c.jpg

Bent my passenger rear OEM endlink. Wasn't a huge deal, replaced them with Racer X adjustables, just curious if anyone else has run into this issue. Suspension setup below:

- RCE T2's (400/400 springs, lowered ~1")
- OEM F/R swaybars
- OEM endlinks

Car has probably done 8-10 trackdays with the above setup, either on 235 RS3's or 225 BFG Rivals.

I bent a stock front, think it was the left side. I can see that being more likely than the rear just by virtue of being longer. Kind of wild to see a rear bent like that. Makes you realize how much deflection is in the stock bushings.

Yeah I always figured I'd bend a front not a rear given how short the rears are. I still can't figure out if this was from normal track use or from hitting something. Hopefully these Racer X ones are stronger.

Impressive. I’m replacing my endlinks this week but only because the boots are torn. I can’t believe your link bent before the fragile rubber boot tore.

Did you catch some good air off some curbing with your car before discovering this? And the rest of the assembly is not bent or warped or broken at all?

Haha nothing like that. The only thing that comes to mind is one time I ran over a dip in the dirt before the curbing started on the right side. So basically the wheel would have traveled down because of the dip, then immediately up because of the curbing. Was a pretty jarring hit. Everything seemed fine afterwards, but I guess not.

Yeah nothing else is bent or broken, just the endlink.

If the Racer X endlinks don’t work out, give Moog a shot. They are just like oem but the rod is much beefier.

https://www.suspension.com/prodimage...86-large-1.jpg

Good that the bar and the mounts survived. Now you have a perfect excuse to get something adjustable. Tax-write-off-able repair expense. haha

Yeah that looks pretty solid. Thanks for the suggestion!

I used MOOG up front when I installed my Koni/TRD combo. Note that MOOG have grease fittings and also allow use of a spanner to hold the bolt for tightening. Others only allow use of the 6mm Allen to hold the bolt. Works fine for installion. Good luck years later when trying to remove.

You don't have an issue with them hitting the inside of the tub?

I had Perrin non adjustable up front and they hit the inside of the wheel well really bad.

Are you saying the tightening bolt becomes seized over the years? I’ll be installing my Moogs tomorrow and I might put some anti seize on it if that’s the case.

Not related entirely, but Perrin front sway bar has fitment problems. FYI I told them about it they just sent me the same thing with the same problem.. too much play in the collars left to right.

I did not know that.

My issue is the top of the link where it connects to the strut though. Went to the whiteline end link which is much narrower to solve my issue.