Ebay Header - any info about
 

I keep seeing this header all over Ebay and figured someone has purchased and installed. Looks like multiple sellers have over 100+ sales so someone must have used this.

Any one actually make power with it? Looks like an HKS knock off, Godsnow looks like the name on it.
I figure a cheap way to eliminate the cat at least some power with a tune.

I can't seem to find a review/info on here unless I'm missing something when I'm searching.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Fr-S-86...285c%7Ciid%3A1

https://www.epartsgo.com/products/z_99728_3_0.jpg

I can’t answer this nicely so here is a picture of a chihuahua in a cone of shame.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a75ac04198.jpg

I can't say it won't work, but...

The hard parts to get right are the welds and making sure the flanges are flat. The material itself could be subpar.
The shape itself looks...fine, I guess.

What's odd is the hardware. They show 8 nut/bolt pieces in the photo. But you can only use 2 - for the overpipe flange. The other 6 holes on the header are for the studs on the head, which, even if you removed them, you could not use a nut & bolt.

They also show fill plugs inserted into both O2 bungs, but that doesn't make sense. You would need at least 1 O2 sensor for the closed loop feedback.
Both O2s aren't just for emissions BS lol

As far as answering your question about making power, it probably does. The shape looks about as free-flowing as any other. Assuming the interior is smooth (not any sloppy globs of weld causing turbulence), and it doesn't leak, then it might be the same, on paper, as any other header. But that's only if it mates tightly, and nothing leaks.
Even then, it's just a question of longevity. How long until a weld breaks off?

Even on reputable headers there are occasional issues with craftsmanship.

You get what you pay for.
Will it last? Not for long.
Is it well made? It's a hit or miss.
Will it fit the first time? You can hammer to fit.
Will it get you the 50hp you think it would come if it? Not really.

If it was me, I wouldn't even bother trying to get any more hp from tunes or exhaust mods. I'll just pay for any supercharge/turbocharged kit if I really want useable power not sounds like it has power.

Damn that's cheap!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I second this. Even after headers and a tune. I'm looking for more power. Now I've decided on going with a turbo, which means I wasted money on my headers because that's gonna be replaced by the turbo manifold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd de-cat the stock header before I bought this. At least you know the stock one will hold together.

There is a reason why it's so cheap. With stuff like this you HAVE to expect fitment issues and possible weak welds, corrosion. If you're fine with that and know how to deal with it it should work fine combined with a tune/reflash.

Just knock the cat off in your stock header and call it a day. Otherwise, fork out a little more money on a used well-known header.

I found a review of that header and a dyno run. The article said regular fuel and a tune so I think you should get one and let us know if you get similar sort of gains.


Link


Attachment 184041

Lots of whine in this thread, as usual when someone asks about cheap parts.
I have a cheap Chinese made cat-back that sounds great and seems to be of good quality. Lots of high quality items are made in China.
I also have an American made ACE 350 header with fitment issues and surface rust.
Remember that the price reflects cost of labor, r&d, etc - not just material quality.


I'd say you can expect some gains with this cheap ebay header. Probably on a par with HKS or a de-catted OEM header. They are all 4-2-1, same runner sizes, etc.
On the other hand, you can buy a relatively cheap (~$300) PLM UEL header that is a clone of JDL UEL.

ACE is Taiwanese.
https://aceheader.com/

The issue with cheap parts is quality control. The major money in producing something is usually in the processes, not materials. The rest of the cost is R&D. You may get one that is perfectly fine, you may get one that's not. That is the gamble.

The issue with overseas parts has never been the fact they are made overseas. It comes down to what the company or individual that is commissioning the manufacturing specifies, and now strongly they hold the company that they contract to build these parts to the correct tolerances.

I use cheap parts but I wouldn't get a cheap header. Problem with them is they can't withstand the thermal cycles.


It gets hot, then it gets cooled or water splashes onto them. I've seen too many cracked headers. Have to make sure the flange doesn't warp or is straight.



Then the hardware kit, a lot of frustration diagnosing an exhaust/vacuum leak. Could be the flange not sealing right or the gaskets.

I've heard, though I'm no expert, that one of the problems with the FA20 (and most subaru H4 engines) is because the exhaust ports are so far apart, any exhaust manifold needs to stretch and shrink with the normal thermal expansion / contraction of the engine. Most aftermarket headers deal with this via a bellows (OK but prone to fatigue cracks) or slip joint (better). The linked header has neither of those so if what I've been told is correct, I would expect this header to crack in a short time, regardless of initial dyno performance numbers.

Subsonic.