alignment specs....is there a dedicated thread ??
 

I ａｍ a new guy to this forum............and happy to be here !!


I have searched and have seen a few posts about some individual alignment likes.... but I can't find a dedicated thread.....


Any help advising and directing me would be appreciated..........!!




Thanks in advance.......




Bill

Welcome!

There are several threads in the suspension forum, not a dedicated thread that I have ever seen.

Many of the guys in there are very experienced in track alignments, I learned alignments on an old optical Hunter machine 15 or so years ago, and have been doing them ever since.

Depends on the track, depends on the tyres.

Look at your tyre wear

Infrared temp guns are cheap and will give a relatively good reading across the tyre, outside-middle-inside

Inside is usually tyre pressure

Outside higher inside lower = more camber

Yada yada yada

Test and tune, test and tune

For my street car I've gone down a bit from my last settings of -2.5° front -2.0° rear zero toe to -1.5° front -1.0° rear zero toe, I will gauge this by looking at tyre wear and handling

Tyre pressure is 35psi, tyres are RE003 235/45 17 on 8" RPF-1

maslin and 86MLR .....Thank you very much for your feedback !!




I am really surprised that there is not more information about alignment setups.




All the best........!!




I don't track, but love agressive setups for running the twisties.....!!!

Alignments are just so specialized it's hard to say. I have included a baseline guide for spirited driving here though (along with lots of info on getting there) http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103609

There is some general rule of thumb settings

But, each car has different tyres, shocks, swaybars, tyre pressures, all of these factors will effect how your car uses its tyres

Track setting on a street car can be problematic, you will lose braking distance, and your tyres will never really get warm and sticky when you are driving to work, so the grip will not be optimised, same with tyre softness, a soft warm tyre can use more camber than a all season.

Street setting on a track will kill your tyres.

Back when I was tracking my cars would have multiple setups, street and track, different tyres, ride heights and alignment setting.

My street set up was easy, the track set up depended on what I was doing and where I was doing it

My Skyline ended up with 3 sets of tyres and rims, street, circuit and drag radials

Speaking of which, when I went to the drags I would wind in 0° rear camber to try and get as much tyre on the road as I could

Sounds complicated, you bet, I had my little black book with different setups for different locations, weather conditions, tyres pressures, did I go overboard, hell yes, but I found the whole thing part of the fun.

Nowadays I just hit the streets and do the occasional maaaad skid, I've always been a hoon, now I'm a old slower hoon

I'm far from a drag guy but I would have thought you'd want to go slightly positive camber for drag. When you get that initial squat off the line you'll get some camber gains in bump that I thought you'd want to account for.

EDIT:
for the OP, the most helpful thread I've found
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103609
It's in the suspension forum and for some reason doesn't appear to be a sticky (unless my coffee just hasn't kicked in yet).

It ain't hard but there's a lot of misinformation about...

Stock car, there's no camber adjustment, so zero toe all around and done.

Biggest shortcoming of stock car is near-zero front camber. This can be remedied to some degree with camber bolts.

For street car, spirited driving, I say get camber bolts and install for max negative front camber, and zero toe all around.

Done.

The old 33 didn't squat that hard

Circa 2012

Oooo... Love me a 33. :drool:

I tend to advise against fully zero toe but rather a slight toe in or out depending on driving style and preference. I have slight toe in at all 4 corners but may opt for some toe out in front after some experimentation.

The reason for this is that quite often a car with zero toe all around will be less stable or have a tendency to wander while travelling down the road (sometimes felt as tram-lining). If the wheels are fighting each other slightly (either in or out) it tends to have a stabilizing effect (toe-in more so). Depending on your tires, local roads composition, personal preferences, position of earth relative to the sun, etc. you may not have the same experience so it may not matter but just my $.02 :cheers:

Thanks .... !!!
 

Again, I would like to really thank all the people on this thread for their feedback !!


This is all truly going to help my getting an ideal setup.....up to including some suspension mods.