Expected Negative Camber / Toe for 1 in Drop
 

About to install a set of TRD / Eibach Pro springs on a '18 PP. Is there a ball park negative camber for front / rear I might expect from those that have done similar? The drop should be close to 1 inch from what I understand. I don't mind running 1-2 degrees negative since I autocross this car about once a month. I think I'll be okay from what I've seen for just an inch, but I had trouble pin pointing the answer. Also should I expect any toe in? Either way, I'll have the alignment checked and adjusted. I just want to have some camber bolts or LC arms in hand for that if they'll be needed. Thanks for the assist.

My '17 is lowered on Eibach Pro. Toe will of course be off. Front camber doesn't really change, MacPherson struts in the front.

Rear camber will be way out, mine was -3/-2.5 degrees. Visibly bad. Moog LCAs and it's all dialed in, I did not need to install the offset rear toe bushings. SPC front camber bolts as well.

See my thread here, exact same situation.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132421

Before and after. Specs are in degrees and minutes, not decimals.

Thanks a bunch! I actually remember reading your thread a while back but then lost track of it after my eyes started bleeding from reading so many posts. I guess I'll go ahead and get the bolts and LCA's to have for the install.

-2.5* of camber sounds like a dream alignment to me :iono:

I thought the springs on the PP would be better than the pro kit springs...interested to know how you like it in comparison.

-2.5 in the rear -0.5 in the front looks like a dumped honda civic. -2.5 all around would work, just not what I was going after. No track time for mine, just a poor weather street beater :D

-1*40' was as much camber as I could get on the front with just the SPC camber bolts.

I'll bet it rides rougher and doesn't handle any better :D

From what I understand the BRZ PP just gets you the Sachs dampers. I believe the ride height and springs are the same as all the 17-19 BRZ's. The spring rates were changed slightly from 16 to 17. Someone correct me if wrong.

Well, I hope that a one inch lower CG and a slightly stiffer spring will be just a little better for the autocross days. Time will tell. Right now, I know the biggest thing that could be fixed for better times is the driver. :lol:

I've had good luck with the Eibachs and there progressive springs on other cars. A descent compromise for a daily driver with occasional track. Could have gone hard core for handling, but like I said, trying to comprise. Closing the wheel gap just little won't be so bad either. It's nothing that can't be undone if doesn't work out.

Just so I understand completely, you didn't need the SPC toe bushings for the LCA's. It looks like you had enough adjustment from the factory to get the rear toe dialed in. Right?

The SPC with toe kit is slightly more expensive the the MOOG without, not much. But if it's not needed then I won't bother and just order the MOOG off Amazon.

Moog is SPC, same kits for a bunch of brands. Moog comes as one side, I think I paid $85 per kit on Amazon? The parts say SPC on them.

One of the brands (Whiteline?) presses out the inner joints and supplies bushings for SCCA requirements.

I did not need the rear toe bushings for that drop and camber. The less negative (closer to 0) the camber the more travel you need on the toe link I believe it was. If you want -1 instead of -1.6 you would need to install the bushings at 1" drop.


Straight from the Moog box, offset bushings included.

It would probably be better off with the extra bump travel. Springs will bump you a class likely, and if it's SCCA based you'll now be in STX unless TRD springs are allowed in stock on BRZ's (and they're actually TRD springs, not eibach branded), I haven't been keeping up much..

Yep, I'm already in STX with the other mods I have. Seems all the other twins I'm running against in that class all have some suspension work. I'm really doing it just for fun. I'm not that competitive as a driver yet, but I figured if I can close the wheel gap for aesthetics and pick up just a hair of performance at the same time , I'd give it a try.