Rainy day rotors
 

Do drilled or slotted rotors help with wet weather braking? I usually ride my brakes prior to hard braking and every once in a while just cruising along as is. It's a little distracting but beats mashing the brakes and having nothing happen for a few seconds. Most of my road going play time in the summer varies between damp and wet roads.

What are you doing where nothing happens for a few seconds? I don’t think rotors will help you, but you need to make sure your brake fluid is in good condition and your brakes are bled properly. If you need improved braking performance try better brake pad compounds.

What brake pads are you using right now?

Vacuum mode to the seat engages when nothing happens...lol. I mash the brakes harder until they grab. Usually I pre-emptively ride them to dry them off. Only happens in certain spots where road is covered in standing water or pooled up in the frost heaves. Pads are stock performance package. Brakes are amazing to me when its dry out.

You could be hydroplaning a bit, what tires are you driving in pools of water?

Definitely can be improved by better pads and also potentially better tires. Leonardo might be onto something with the hydroplaning aspect. Is anything else affected in the wet, or just braking? What tires do you have

i've never noticed any significant difference in braking application from dry to wet--still running the oem solid rotors/pads currently. for my use, the only reason i want to upgrade is aesthetics.

there's some theory that slotted rotors wipe the pad for a constantly fresh pad material, and many people use this for more consistent braking performance contrasted to solid rotors that can glaze the pad. but if the pad is saturated with water, a new, but still wet part of the pad isn't going to make it any different.

but drilled rotors are a waste of money in all but the most tangential extreme circumstances. the theory when the pads/rotors are super heated, gases are created between the pad and rotor, and it can prevent the pad from making contact with the rotor. the theory is that the drilled holes allow those gasses to escape, allowing the pad to make contact and stop the car. the reality of this is the gases are only created at temperatures that would boil oem-spec brake fluid, so by that point, you've already at least upgraded to better quality pads and fluids, but realistically, would understand the more extreme braking requirements of the situation would require an entire braking system upgrade with larger calipers, rotors, stainless lines, different fluid, etc..

The best solution would be to have a set of wet weather rotors and dry weather rotors.

i prefer to have a wet weather car, and a dry weather car.

i'm hoping to progress to one car per day, with some extra allotments for wet/dry days.

Seriously*, if you are going to that much trouble, you really should have a cloudy day car too.






*I'm not sure if that is irony or not.

It hydroplanes in a few spots. I'm pretty used to that. Definately the brakes, not tires. 90% tread, pilot sport as3+. I have a similar issue right after leaving a car wash. I have a good habit of tapping/ riding brakes so I suppose I'll just keep doing that.

I'll send another email to my parts supplier and see if they get back to me this time. Pads...Mmmmk. Thanks folks.

This thread has me going :iono:

Drilled and slotted rotors are unnecessary. Wet or dry you have more braking power then traction. Never a reason to ride your brakes.

Drill slotted rotors do the same exact function as a solid rotor. Only slightly less surface area.

In wet conditions it's null. Due to simple centrifugal force.

Like others said, get better pads

You guys are great! Thank you all!