Anyone blow a stock engine running 8 psi(<300HP)
 

As title states, has anyone blown a stock engine running a conservative 8 psi tune with less than 300 hp? if you did was it due to the tune or the engine internals just gave up? I searched but only found threads dating to the earlier years of the twins and people mostly seemed to have issues with tunes or really pushing the engine past 350hp

Anyone who has a simple turbo setup with low psi and <300 hp, how has the engine managed and has anyone have over 50k boosted at this low power level?

Thank you guys very much for your input!!!

I bent a rod at 7psi with a bull blown stage one kit.

But it can happen to anyone honestly. I have a friend making 400 on stock block 14psi


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Was it due to boost creep? Or good tune everything good just blew?

Everything was going good and there it went


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what year was your car? brz or frs? that's crazy man kinda scares me into an NA build lol

What kind of FI installation? What brand? What were the conditions when it failed?

Lmfao 13 frs full blown stage one with GTX28 didn’t even have 30k on the car. After I bent the rod I took engine apart and built it. when I went to start I found out why I bent a rod and it turned out that I had a direct fuel injector staying stuck open at times

Woahh man that's a huge bummer, it wasn't even the power you were pushing but just a malfunction damn. Do you think that it had something to do with the tune?

No it was a mechanical failure in the injector. Took them to get flow tested and the one that bent the rod was stuck open pretty bad. James even told me that was the first direct injector he ever saw stay stuck open. Coming from him that he’s tuned a lot of these cars means it’s really not common at all

Does it have to be specifically 8psi?

If you cannot afford to replace an engine, do not go FI. yes, people get lucky. More people get unlucky. There's a reason more cars in the world don't just get a turbo slapped on them: the cost of entry into the carnival is the cheapest part of the endeavor.

Boost for the most part is irrelevant. Knock, af/r, supporting mods, the tune, not making a ton of wtq low in the rpm bands are things that contribute to survival chances if TUNED correctly. If you don't have catch cans and oil enters your intake, you get knock; oil lowers your octane significantly. Oil supply is tied to rpm; low rpm high load conditions mean the weak rods sustain more load for longer.

This is the surface of theories, rumors, facts, and things you need to consider when you think you'll take a coin flip and go turbo.

Not really just low power , I've heard everywhere that pushing past 300 is asking for trouble and I'm looking to stay below that

Definitely agree with the idea of if you can't replace it, don't go turbo but after extensive research I've came to the same conclusion you have, Oil cooler or an AOS/catch can, AEM wideband, gauges and a good tune will give you a reliable boosted FA20, I plan on boosting to the power levels of a carb legal edelbrock (~270hp ~210wtq) which have proven to be safe on the internals. I want to see how common it is to blow an engine at these power levels

I agree with you that it all comes down to how well you maintain the turbo and how much thought you put into the lines and cooling and tune.

Yeah the D4S system is supposed to be the best. I've heard a lot from James at HRI that he does some great tuning and hes local for me here in florida, are you still running a tune from him or a turbo kit?