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3 pound weight difference?
So, I have narrowed my wheel search down to these 2 wheels. I would prefer them both with a little less offset, but can't find anything. With that, I have a question.
Rota Titans 17 pound Konig Oversteer 20 pound I would like to get the lighter wheels for function alone, but will I notice anything with a 3 pound drop per wheel? Butt dyno? Gas mileage? Anything? Thanks for any feedback. |
Are you into time attack events? Do you need to save every single ounce in order to gain .03 seconds cause that's what makes or breaks a win or loss?
Or so you just use your car for normal daily/weekend fun use? If you answer yes to the first get the lightest wheel. If you answered no, then flip a coin, or go on a diet. It's your call. The difference would be only felt on the butt dyno, maybe a hair of a difference in gas. |
Take out your spare tires, you instantly get 23lb free up.
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it is 12 lbs total and will you notice it? Maybe a little, but remember tire weight is just as big a concern.
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Lighter wheels are always good if they are strong enough. Since almost all tires are heavier than the Primacy you should look for the lightest wheels you can afford that are strong enough. The total wheel tire weight is what counts as the previous post emphasizes. Stock wheel and tire weigh just overs 40 lbs. better performing tires in the same size are two to four pounds heavier than the Primacies. Wider tires are even heavier.
Unsprung weight affects the spring and damper effective rate in the same way as actually changing the spring rate, from a wheel control perspective, I.e, ride effects. Higher wheel weights require more spring and damper force than lower wheel weights. Grip over bumpy roads is improved with lower wheel weights. |
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For the record both those wheels were very high on my search list. Since you are looking at 17x8 sizes I went with the Konig Hypergram. Has little better offset +40 to push the wheel out a little more and weights ~16lbs. Also went with Hankook Evo2 tires in stock size that weight 19lbs. So I'm saving ~6lbs or rotating mass per wheel. I put these on along with a lighter pulleys and felt an immediate ease of acceleration. http://i.imgur.com/drrR8e9.jpg http://i.imgur.com/3sV1ULw.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cqWH9Jj.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jhEgGco.jpg |
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For street use the most important factor is probably actually braking distance... and a three pound per wheel difference might make the difference between avoiding a collision or not. Depending on tires, a three pound difference in rotating mass could be in the 5-10 ft range on a 60mph to zero stop. |
I'm at ~36 pounds total with a 12.5 lb wheel and 23 lb tire (225/50-16), and while I can say I definitely feel a difference (mostly in suspension reaction/nimbleness), it's not something I'd call night and day. It doesn't 'transform' the car. But it does make it feel just that much more refined...any unspring and/or rotating mass lost is a good thing.
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Just another option, that is lighter and similiar style
https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...=Series.Yellow |
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So you added a heavier tire on the outside rotating mass probably why you didn't feel as much |
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https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...17&autoModClar= |
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Yeah, I realize that, but it's only a pound heavier than the OEM Turanzas and I'm still significantly lighter in all three areas (rotation, unsprung, and overall weight), and it's enough for me to feel, so I'm happy. And buying the wheels used made the whole setup a relative bargain. |
I'd worry about wheel weight, but not tire weight AT ALL.
Wheel weight...lighter is better, but are you being paid to race? Do you really think wheels that weight 3 more pounds is really what's holding you back? Tires...usually heavier tires have stiffer sidewalls. Buy the best damn rubber you can afford, for your application. Car see's lots of water? Don't buy summer only tires etc. Ideally, if you live in a place with seasons, two sets of wheels/tires is nice... |
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